Chocolate sauce appeals to the novice cook. It seems so simple. Just warm chocolate. Right?

But good chocolate sauce calls for further refinement. I started this project young, which might explain my early mistakes: Cocoa powder. Corn syrup. What did I know?

I moved on to better chocolate, to heavy cream, to whisking and warming with whiskey. I managed good chocolate sauce. Not great chocolate sauce.

Then one night my friend Carbery served fantastic chocolate sauce. Not thin, like the canned drizzle. Not thick, like bottled fudge. Just luscious.

Carbery’s recipe called for egg yolks and lots of butter, neither of which should be a surprise. Butter and yolks emulsify into many an esteemed sauce: hollandaise, Bearnaise, lemon curd. Why not chocolate? It always counts as classic.