Nuts for coconuts: Our crush on the fruit breeds a confusing array of products

2013-09-25T00:00:00Z Nuts for coconuts: Our crush on the fruit breeds a confusing array of productsBy Judy Hevrdejs Chicago Tribune Arizona Daily Star
September 25, 2013 12:00 am  • 

Judging by the number of coconut products in supermarkets these days — beyond the flaked coconut your granny used in macaroons and ambrosia — we’ve gone a bit nuts for this fruit.

That’s right: The hairy brown ovoid is not a true nut but the stone of a drupe, which makes it related to peaches and plums.

Just check supermarket refrigerator cases, where cartons of coconut milks, creamers and spreads share space with cultured coconut products (think yogurts and kefirs). Or shelves, where cans of coconut milk, jars of coconut oil and coconut spray-oils nudge bags of shredded and flaked coconut. Or in freezers, where coconut milk desserts sit next to ice creams.

And depending on your coconut crush, there’s coconut tequila, vodka and beer, plus plain and flavored coconut waters based on the thin opaque juice found inside the fruit.

Of course, cooks in Asia, West Africa and the Caribbean have long used coconut milk (made by simmering coconut meat with water, then straining) and coconut oil (pressed from the meat) to enrich dishes in the same way cooks elsewhere might use cream or butter. Some newer products are coconut creatures of a different sort. Canned coconut milk used in a Thai curry, for example, is not the same as coconut milks found in grocery refrigerated cases.

Which means it’s important to know what you’re buying (check ingredient and nutrition labels carefully), then don’t assume coconut products will work like similar dairy products in cooking.

Consider refrigerated cartons of coconut milk.

“The coconut milk in the can is the one that tastes so delicious,” says registered dietitian Andrea Giancoli, a spokeswoman for the Academy of Nutrition and Dietetics. “You’re not going to get that deep coconutty flavor, taste and texture with refrigerated coconut milks.”

A look at the ingredient label will tell you why.

“If you’ve never tried these coconut milks that are in the dairy case, it is not the same natural coconut milk that you … extract from the (meat of) the coconut, which is super high in fat, super high in calories — 550 calories for 1 cup — and it’s very thick,” Giancoli says. “So what they’ve done with some of these coconut milks that are in the dairy section is they’ve watered them down a lot. So they have a lot fewer calories and a lot less fat.”

Still, Giancoli says the refrigerated milks work for smoothies and in cereals, and in “mashed sweet potatoes it would be divine.” And when she uses canned coconut milk in vegetable, meat and many traditional Asian dishes, she opts for the lower-calorie light version.

She’s a fan of coconut oil, spreading it on fish such as salmon or whitefish, so “as it cooks, it makes fish even moister.”

Solid at room temperature, coconut oil is good for frying and sautéing.



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