When done right, a sandwich is a beautiful thing.

Done wrong, it gets traded at lunch for something better, like a half-eaten bag of chips. Or worse, just outright tossed into the trash.

A ’wich from Sam-Witches and Such would most certainly not get chucked. The new restaurant knows its ’wichcraft: fresh bread and buns able to stand up to what’s piled inside, which on our visits were top-notch deli meats and juicy, stuffed burger patties.

Sam-Witches opened in February in the former China Thai Cuisine location, 6502 E Tanque Verde Road, by first-time restaurant owners Tiffany and Ryan Paris. They wanted to open a place that served the kind of food they like and grew up with — simple, old-fashioned American fare. Biscuits and gravy, burgers, chili.

As the Parises intended, this isn’t fancy-dancy food; it’s homespun and hearty with a few creative touches tossed in here and there. See the fried Nutella and banana sandwich on the menu? That’s what I’m talking about.

For the full review and more restaurant news, see Thursday's Caliente.