This is a tale of two dinners.

At one, the food was cold, the service colder.

The other, the food temperature was perfect. The service, however, wasn’t much better.

The choppy service could be because Wild Garlic Grill, chef Steven Schultz’s latest venture, is madly popular.

One could argue that unexpected crowds have slowed things down at the restaurant, 2530 N. First Ave., which opened in December. And, indeed, Schultz said they didn’t expect to be this popular this quickly. (He might thank Yelp for that — entries about Wild Garlic have lit up the website.)

But Schultz, who is Wild Garlic’s executive chef and general manager (Maria Martin-Gourdin, who works at the restaurant, is the owner of record), is a veteran of the restaurant industry — he’s been whipping up dishes for 27 years here and elsewhere. He should have the service end of the business well worked out.

What Schultz does best is food. His sauces are sophisticated, his ingredients local when possible, his offerings often swoonable.

Unless, of course, the entrees are cold, as they were on a weekend visit in early February.

See the full review in Thursday's Caliente.