It's a croissant, it's a doughnut. It's .... delicious

2014-03-27T00:00:00Z 2014-07-03T10:21:42Z It's a croissant, it's a doughnut. It's .... deliciousBy Kristen Cook Arizona Daily Star Arizona Daily Star
March 27, 2014 12:00 am  • 

Psst. We’ll let you in on a secret.

They’re here.

Croissant-doughnuts. Are. Here. In Tucson.

Let the drooling begin.

But first, an explanation if sugar doesn’t rule your universe and you’re unfamiliar with the foodnomenon that is the Cronut.

The pastry hybrid from Dominique Ansel Bakery in Soho, New York, is trademarked and so freakishly popular that a security guard oversees the daily crowd that snakes outside hours before the bakery opens to keep cutters in line and scalpers at bay. The treats have even sparked a black market on Craigslist.

People are crazy for Cronuts.

Prep & Pastry, 3073 N. Campbell Ave., doesn’t make Cronuts — no one does except Dominique Ansel Bakery, duh, the trademark — but they do sell dossants, which, to be honest, is a much more appetizing name.

The new bakery, which opened in January, has sold dossants from the get-go. When co-owner Billy Kovacs was researching menu items, he kept running across Yelp posts pleading for Cronuts. Pastry chef Kara Hranicka set to work, and after about a week and a half of experimenting, produced the perfect dossant.

As word spreads, Prep & Pastry regularly gets these cryptic calls.

“I’ve had people call in the morning, ‘Do you have them?’” Kovacs says. Callers don’t even utter the name. Everyone knows what they mean.

Two inches tall with a hole in the middle, the dossant is flaky and light. It has the airy texture of a croissant with the fabulous friedness of a doughnut, the best of both breakfast worlds. The top can be a sweet glazed blanket of anything from maple-bacon (with candied bacon!) to passionfruit to raspberry-chocolate and even a cinnamon-sugar, churro style coating.

Customers “just eat it and fall asleep at the table,” jokes Kovacs, who’s eager to get to New York and sample the real thing. “It’s full of butter — but don’t tell anybody that.”

Kovacs reveals that one of his business partners, who shall remain nameless, was very much against the idea of the fauxnut. Until he tried one.

At $4, they’re pricey (not as expensive as their inspiration, which sells for $5), but a lot of work goes into the dossant. It takes about three hours to make the dough, which is done entirely by hand. Prep & Pastry doesn’t have a sheeter, a machine that flattens dough into uniform thickness.

“When you look at it, it’s kind of a freak of nature,” Kovacs says. “You’re dealing with a croissant, which is very labor intensive and difficult. There’s layer after layer of butter. It has to rise correctly. If you don’t get it right, you just wasted all that dough.”

Prep & Pastry typically sells out of dossants around 1 p.m. on weekdays. They go faster on weekends when pretty much every brunch table orders them, Kovacs says.

Though they’re a runaway hit, Prep & Pastry isn’t content to rest on its dossants. Currently in development are homemade Pop-Tarts and cinnamon rolls dusted with local Exo Roast Co. coffee.

They’re still tinkering with the dossant, too, experimenting with new flavors and adding fillings to the flaky layers.

“It’s just weird to have that kind of cult following,” Kovacs says.

Well, until you try one.

Cro-what?

The Cronut debuted in May at Dominique Ansel Bakery in Soho, New York, sold out in 35 minutes and immediately went viral with knock-offs found all over the United States and even in Europe and the Philippines.

The French-born Ansel spent two months perfecting the cream-filled Cronut, which takes three days to make. One flavor is available each month, and offerings have included rose-vanilla, lemon-maple and salted dulce de leche.

The pastry’s so popular that it makes news when a celeb tries to cut line (actress Emma Roberts got bounced when she and her publicist attempted to skip the wait) or someone posts a pervy Craigslist ad offering to trade a Cronut for, um, sexual favors.

Months later, the lines are still so long that the bakery issued its own version of a Disney FASTPASS. Called the Winter Pass, it allowed people to come back at a later time during freezing weather when the line was safely tucked inside the bakery.

Copyright 2014 Arizona Daily Star. All rights reserved. This material may not be published, broadcast, rewritten or redistributed.

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