They're known for their devilish pellets of deep-fried Oreo cookies. (Which for better or worse, have been taken off the menu.) But the kitchen at Surly Wench Pub also does some mean tacos.

We swerved away from the ones with the nacho cheese and went with a plate of Mom's Tacos, stuffed with seasoned ground beef the way owner Stephanie Johnston's mom used to do it. More like a dry meat sauce than a meat ball, the ground beef was chunky and peppery; a nice foil to the crunchy cabbage and herbaceous pico on top. Dip it in that smoky roasted poblano sauce, and you've got yourself a well-rounded meal ... that won't destroy you. 

Insider's tip: The kitchen also does takeout, so you can order the tacos from a surrounding bar and go pick them up.   

Location: 424 N. Fourth Ave.

Phone: 520-882-0009

Kitchen Hours: 2 p.m. to 1 a.m. Sundays through Thursdays, 11 a.m. to 1:30 a.m. Fridays and Saturdays 

Payment: accepts debit and credit

Contact Andi Berlin at aberlin@tucson.com. On Twitter: @AndiBerlin

You can find the Star's digital food writer Andi Berlin at a taqueria near you, taking tiny bites and furiously scribbling into an old notepad.