I know where everyone's at on South 12th Avenue: They're holed up in a room lined with brown bricks, eating fat bulbs of crispy fried shrimp with chipotle sauce. 

People around here all seem to know about this Ensenada-style seafood place Taco Fish, despite its tucked-away building and the fact that the inside kinda looks like a redecorated public swimming pool. 

That's half the fun. But the real draw is the restaurant's equivalent of the combo plate, the Taco Gordo, stacked with three specialties: fried fish, a scoop of shredded red marlin studded with soft onions, and a single curled shrimp on top, cherry style.

This is one of the finest things I've consumed in my journeys. (And possibly the largest taco I've eaten in my life.) It's all about the crisp bubbly batter, so rich without being too heavy, giving way to a perfectly-cooked piece of fish. A masterpiece of the fryer fit for the finest gourmet restaurant; best consumed at the table in the back, while tapping your foot on the pavement.

Weird fact: This place started out as a food truck, and was so popular the owners built up a brick-and-mortar on the same spot. 

Location: 4841 S. 12th Ave., but they also have a taco truck at 250 E. Grant Road. 

Phone: 520-777-6235

Hours: 9 a.m. to 7 p.m. Mondays through Saturdays, 9 a.m. to 6 p.m. Sundays

Payment: accepts debit and credit cards 

Contact Andi Berlin at aberlin@tucson.com. On Twitter: @AndiBerlin

You can find the Star's digital food writer Andi Berlin at a taqueria near you, taking tiny bites and furiously scribbling into an old notepad.