What came first, the turkey or the egg? At Penca's brunch service they tend to come out about the same time. The downtown restaurant serves upscale tacos starting in the a.m., so I went for the guajolote taco: moist shreds of roasted turkey on a hand-pressed corn tortilla.   

Gorgeous. Each ingredient brought a fresh color and a clear purpose: the silken pink chipotle crema coating the delicate meat, the shredded red cabbage with its bitter snap, the pop of the bright green onions. So different, yet they're all pulled together by that hearty masa, filling your mouth with the timeless flavor of warmed corn.  

Insider's tip: How do they get the turkey so soft? Before they roast it, they brine the whole bird and add a mirepoix of carrots, onions and celery. 

Location: 50 E. Broadway

Phone: 520-203-7681

Hours: 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Tuesdays through Thursdays, 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Fridays, 10 a.m. to 11 p.m. Saturdays, 10 a.m. to 8 p.m. Sundays

Payment: accepts debit and credit cards

Contact Andi Berlin at aberlin@tucson.com. On Twitter: @AndiBerlin

You can find the Star's digital food writer Andi Berlin at a taqueria near you, taking tiny bites and furiously scribbling into an old notepad.