taco, noun  ta·co  \ˈtä-(ˌ)kō\: a Mexican food that consists of a folded and usually fried piece of thin bread (called a tortilla) that is filled with meat, cheese, lettuce, etc.

I've eaten lots of funky tacos for this project: carne asada with chimichurri sauce, Carolina pulled pork and braised short rib, a Sonoran hot dog split in half and wrapped in a tortilla ... But this one is really vexing me.     

If a tortilla with random toppings is still a taco, does the same work in reverse? What if you have a traditional taco ingredient like white fish, and you take away the tortilla? Is this any less a taco than the teriyaki tofu with cilantro Greek yogurt? A question for greater minds than I ... 

But you know what, I think El Saguarito's lettuce-wrapped fish taco works! Mostly because it tastes good. The fresh Basa, flaky and cold to the touch, is broiled in lemon to take away any fishiness it might have. It tastes light and lovely with the crunchy cabbage and tomato, wrapped inside a massive leaf of Romaine lettuce. Pour on a little bit of that creamy cilantro salsa and you've got yourself a guilt-free lunch.    

Weird fact: The funky little restaurant, which used to be a Burger King and then a pizza place, still has the old Italian murals on the walls. When the place changed hands, the original artist was brought in to repaint them, adding Mexican flourishes like agave and bottles of Jose Cuervo.

Location: 1763 E. Prince Road

Phone: 520-297-1264

Hours: 7 a.m. to 9 p.m. Mondays through Wednesdays, 7 a.m. to 10 p.m. Fridays and Saturdays, closed Sundays

Payment: accepts debit and credit

Contact Andi Berlin at aberlin@tucson.com. On Twitter: @AndiBerlin

You can find the Star's digital food writer Andi Berlin at a taqueria near you, taking tiny bites and furiously scribbling into an old notepad.