The village of Bakhta, in the Siberian Taiga, has no running water, no telephones, no medical services. Despite the harsh conditions, trappers, hunters, and fishermen find life to be rich.


Serendipity is what gives us "Happy People: A Year in the Taiga," an intimate portrait of the vanishing breed of hunters and fishers still making a life in the isolated heart of Siberia, where a mild winter day is 30 below and the only way in or out is by helicopter or boat.

That we are given a glimpse of this extraordinary place and its people at all is due to pure chance.

Filmmaker Werner Herzog had dropped in unexpectedly on a friend in Los Angeles and found footage of Siberia playing on the plasma. It would seem Herzog stayed as much for the film as the friend, eventually watching all four hours. It led to an unusual collaboration between the creator of that footage, Russian director Dmitry Vasyukov, and Herzog, who's become as well known for his documentaries ("Grizzly Man," "Cave of Forgotten Dreams") as his feature films.

Within the vast expanse of what Vasyukov had shot, Herzog saw a story. But first, he had to persuade the Russian filmmaker to trust him. That Vasyukov said yes, allowing Herzog complete control, brings us back to "Happy People," now a tight 94-minute journey to an icy never-never land.

In a wilderness nearly as forbidding as the one Herzog captured in his Oscar-nominated look at Antarctica, "Encounters at the End of the World," the documentary begins in spring. The great Yenisey River that snakes through Siberia is still frozen. The village of Bakhta that sits on its shores is still covered by snow. And Gennady Soloviev is still working morning to night, mostly outdoors.

Though others will move in and out of the documentary, Soloviev will anchor it. He is a trapper by trade, primarily sable pelts, and an unlikely environmentalist. But he is so at one with the Taiga, and so intent on the ebb and flow of life there, that it is impossible not to be drawn into his world.

Herzog has become a master of the understatement. Vasyukov and his team of cameramen gave him a stunning range to work with, so the filmmaker keeps his own narration to a minimum. Soloviev speaks eloquently and articulately of the culture of the region, the old traditions he worries may be lost.

In Soloviev's hands we see an ordinary ax become an instrument of art. Traps, huts, snow skis - the useful sort - emerge from felled trees with techniques handed down for generations. One of his dogs is always at his side, as critical to a hunter's survival as a trap or a gun. There is no room for coddling here. The dogs sleep in the snow outside. They run for miles at a time, yet the bond between the animals and the man becomes its own story.

The village of Bakhta that is home to the hunters and fishermen of the Taiga is a case study in the strange ways that civilization does - and doesn't - take hold as it intersects with indigenous people. The village has no running water, telephones or medical aid for its 300 residents. Yet the men rely on snowmobiles when they head out for months at a time to trap their allotted areas. Most often it is an old wooden canoe that gets the fuel-powered monsters to the backcountry.

Life in the Taiga is harsh, but for people like Soloviev, it is a rich and satisfying life.


Happy People: A Year in the Taiga

*** 1/2

• Not rated; English and Russian with English subtitles.

• Directors: Werner Herzog , Dmitry Vasyukov.

• Running time: 94 minutes.