Larry Conrad dishes raw meat from the well-stocked buffet at Azian. The meats are marinated and there's a slew of accompaniments, such as kimchi, scallions and garlic. You pick the meat it and cook it at the grill in the center of your table.
As children, we were bombarded with dinner rules: No elbows on the table, don't talk with your mouth full, don't throw milk in your sister's face. The joy of being a grown-up is that you figure the dining rules you have to learn are behind you. Not at Azian.