A bewitching voice cuts through the blazing heat, singing the cumbia: "Me gustasssss." Standing there in that abandoned dirt lot across the street from the Star's offices, I wasn't really expecting a masterpiece. But here it is ... I am completely, unabashedly enamored with this taco.
Tacontento's Eduardo Chumacera is from Guadalajara, and this is his specialty. Soft stewed shreds of birria beef are spiced heavily with cumin and clove, and then tucked into a corn tortilla that gets crisped to a sheen on the flattop.
The taco a la plancha estilo Jalisco comes out on a sheet of tinfoil, and it is finger-searing hot. But that spicy meat, so potent it's almost like a curry, and the supple tortilla and the Vicente Fernández song that came at the end. It was all so wonderful, I skipped back across the street, singing the entire way.
Insider's tip: The salsa bar here is phenomenal; especially the beautiful pico and the spicy avocado with cilantro and jalapeño. True artisanship ...
The song that started it all: "Me Gustas" by Tropicalisimo Apache
Location: Southwest corner of East Irvington Road and South Park Avenue.
Phone: (520) 981-3908
Hours: 10 a.m. to 8 p.m. Tuesdays through Thursdays, 10 a.m. to 10 p.m. Fridays and Saturdays, closed Sundays and Mondays
Payment: accepts debit and credit