Al pastor. The famous spit-roasted pork of central Mexico, a crimson spectacle of adobo spice and sweet pineapple. It's actually a hybrid spurred by Lebanese immigrants who came with their rotisserie lamb in the 1900s. But the dish is very common up here in Sonora these days, and wow, is it a pleasure. 

The cooks at El Cisne do theirs a little bit differently. They take a pork tenderloin, dice it up and marinate it in an adobo mix of chiles, spices and chunks of pineapple. Spruced up with some avocado and crisp cabbage, this weekly special is a bit more substantial than your southside stuff. More gourmet, I'd say. But really, really good.     

Weird fact: I couldn't get the secret out of them, but these guys have some of the best refried beans I've ever put in my mouth. They're so dang soft and luscious, with little mounds of whole pintos swimming around. Perfection.  

Location: 4717 E. Sunrise Drive.

Phone: 520-638-6160

Hours: 11 a.m. to 9 or 9:30 p.m. Mondays through Thursdays, 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Fridays through Sundays

Payment: accepts debit and credit

Contact Andi Berlin at On Twitter: @AndiBerlin

You can find the Star's digital food writer Andi Berlin at a taqueria near you, taking tiny bites and furiously scribbling into an old notepad.