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Caliente: A growing veggie scene

  • Nov 14, 2013
  • Nov 14, 2013 Updated Nov 14, 2013
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For some, it’s the excitement of locally grown produce in the open air at one of the many farmers markets that have sprouted in the Tucson area. For others, it’s about making veggies and fruits the main event while eschewing meat and dairy products. Plants are also turning up front and center at some of Tucson’s freshest, most inventive restaurants. In addition, Tucson is home to the Healthy You Network, a unique, young nonprofit devoted to helping people improve their lives by shifting to a plant-based diet.

Plant-powered firefighter

Ben Reedy says he recovers faster from workouts since he stopped eating meat, dairy and eggs in May.

The 25-year-old Tucson-area firefighter says his mother has been a vegan for a decade, but he finally got motivated to embrace plant-based eating after attending a Healthy You Network symposium with her in May. Speakers included an ultramarathon runner and retired Austin, Texas, firefighter Rip Esselstyn, who wrote “The Engine 2 Diet.”

A former high school and college wrestler, Reedy says he continues to build muscle at least as easily, if not better, than before. “I also feel like my cardio has gotten better as well.”

He lost about 16 pounds the first month, and no longer gets heartburn. He also expects good results from his next cholesterol test.

“I feel like I have more energy in the day, as long as I keep eating my meals,” he says.

Reedy finds he does get hungry every two hours, eschewing processed, calorie-dense fast foods for whole foods such as rice, black beans, hummus and stir-fry.

His girlfriend also committed to the new way of eating, and they now make meals such as veggie sloppy Joes, cooking with vegetable stock instead of added oils.

Reedy’s fire crew has switched to vegan dinners when he is on shift. “They’ve been getting creative,” Reedy says.

Urban Fresh, at 73 E. Pennington St. downtown, has become one of his favorite restaurants.

But he’s also found many restaurants are more than happy to leave dairy and meat out of dishes. “It’s not too hard as long as you’re not scared to speak up,” he says.

It’s definitely easier to eat out than when his mom became vegan, he says.

“The movement is growing in Tucson, and it’s going to keep getting easier.”

Inger Sandal

Athletes eat clean to fuel up

Fabbians Ebbele’s family opened a soul food restaurant offering brisket and ribs about the time he stopped eating most meats.

“Everybody was like ‘You can’t do this. It’s hard,’” said Ebbele, an offensive tackle for the University of Arizona football team. “I thought it was going to be hard, but there’s a lot of substitutes for (meat).”

The 309-pound, 6-foot-8-inch junior still eats fish — sushi is one of his favorite foods – but he weaned himself off other meats as a senior at Simeon Career Academy in Chicago to improve his performance on the field. He started with pork, then cut out beef and chicken next when he realized it wasn’t as challenging as he had expected. He never looked back.

He has his grocery shopping go-tos, and eating out isn’t a problem, either. He’ll swing by Safeway to get soy crumbles — a ground beef alternative— to make tacos. Moving to college actually made the whole thing easier. There are options everywhere.

“I haven’t had any slip-ups,” Ebbele said. “Restaurants are really starting to tune into that now and go toward that. It’s trending now, more soy products and veggies.”

Still, Ebbele says he could never go vegan — just about any flavor of ice cream rivals sushi as winning cuisine in his book.

With most meat out of the question and an apathy toward eggs, this athlete gets a lot of his protein from supplements.

“I go to the weight room, and they’ve got protein brownies, cookies and protein drinks,” Ebbele said.

For registered dietitian Jenna Heller, a vegetarian lifestyle is a bowl of whole grains, leafy greens, colorful veggies and beans or legumes.

She wouldn’t have it any other way.

Heller, 25, dabbled with a vegetarian diet on and off throughout high school and college, finally settling into the pattern.

“One of the things that people notice when they decide to cut back on meat is that they already eat a lot of vegetarian foods,” Heller said.

“Foods they enjoy are vegetarian or can be made vegetarian. If you love lasagna, just leave out the hamburger. If you snack on peanut butter and carrot sticks at work, you’re already on the right track.”

One of Heller’s favorites is a lentil sloppy Joe.

She cut meat from her own diet for both nutritional and ethical reasons. A member of the Southern Arizona Roadrunners and a hobby jogger since junior high, Heller is training for a 10K run at the beginning of December, mixing three- to five-mile runs with speed work.

“Whenever I’m working with athletes who want to improve, they can with lots of fruits and vegetables for energy and performance, with or without meat,” Heller said.

She sees a vegetarian lifestyle as a personal preference that brings “benefits to your wallet and your lifestyle.” Veggies tend to run cheaper than meats.

By Johanna Willett, Arizona Daily Star

Plant-based dining blossoms in Old Pueblo

Peggy Raisglid remembers the doubters as she prepared to open Lovin’ Spoonfuls restaurant in 2005.

“I had people tell me that there was no way a vegan restaurant could survive in Tucson. That was the repeated drumbeat.”

Today, she said, “I feel the momentum. I get customers coming in, especially over the past year or so, and they really understand. They really get the health benefits.”

Lovin’ Spoonfuls has grown into a community center that draws everyone from vegan activists to neighbors who love the soups, to folks told by their cardiologists to embrace a plant-based diet.

She’s also encouraged by the number of new restaurants that put plants first.

“There’s room in town definitely for all those places and more. The more people that get it, the broader your customer base is,” she said. “In my ideal world, every restaurant in Tucson would be a vegan restaurant. The best way to promote it is a variety of options.”

FOOD FOR ASCENSION CAFE

“It’s very vegetable-forward,” is how Rani Olson describes her menu at Food For Ascension Cafe, which quietly opened a couple of weeks ago.

The farm-to-table café is part of the Sea of Glass Center for the Arts owned by Avalon Organic Gardens & EcoVillage.

Olson, 33, prefers not to use words such as vegetarian, vegan and organic because she wants her food to be accessible to everyone.

Terms that do appear on the cafe’s website: community supported, farm-to-table and plant-based.

That translates to a selection that one day last week ranged from an oyster mushroom panini served with collard greens, green chile aioli, sprouts and garlic as one of the day’s five “Hot Fork” options to a bread pudding with currant, apricot and sesame ice cream as a “sweet delight.”

The restaurant does not serve meat or dairy products but does offer eggs from a local farmer and honey.

“We’re trying to highlight the vegetables for once,” she said.

MEXICO IN SEASON

Mexico in Season is the restaurant that Diana Teran and Francisco Moreno plan to open in early December.

It’s also how the couple ate while growing up in Sonora.

“My husband and I grew up in a farming community in Mexico,” Teran said. “We never ate anything that wasn’t in season.” Vegetables were abundant. Meat was rare. Tortillas and tortas were freshly made.

“We want to bring that concept and work with the farmers around here,” she said. The restaurant will open near East Ajo Way and South Palo Verde Road.

While many restaurants build their menus around meat and dairy, most of the meals served at Mexico in Season will be plant-based foods, with just a few meat selections.

Teran does not consider herself a vegan or vegetarian. “I still eat meat, but maybe twice a month,” she said. Much of their cuisine will reflect the culinary influences throughout Mexico. They plan to serve lunch and dinner, with breakfast on weekends.

There are no plans to serve alcohol or soda. Teran will make fresh, seasonal drinks such as a horchata made from organic rolled oats and organic soy milk. They will also serve Mexican coffee from a local vendor.

The couple already make whole wheat tortillas — made with olive oil and sea salt — at their La Tauna Tortillas at 5650 S. 12th Ave. The tortillas, both vegan and organic, are now sold in Sprouts, the Food Conspiracy Co-op on North Fourth Avenue, and online at amazon.com

MEXICO IN SEASON

“I’m a big believer in Michael Pollan — ‘Eat food. Not too much. Mostly plants,’” said Ari Shapiro, the force behind the Xoom Juice smoothies shop, Falora, and downtown’s Sparkroot (which offered kale chips way before it became “the sexy new green”). Each eatery makes it extremely easy to be what Shapiro calls “plant centric.”

“For me it was a combination of health and an ethical choice,” said Shapiro, who stopped eating meat (aside from the occasional fish) a decade ago.

Xoom Juice has always offered soy alternatives. “We first started in ’01 and people were asking what soy milk was,” he said. “One change we’ve seen is from soy milk to almond milk ... we’re now big almond milk purveyors.”

Inger Sandal

Healthy You Network is unique

Jamie Roach was already a vegetarian when she watched “Forks Over Knives.”

The 2011 documentary, widely circulated on DVD, explores the link between diet and the leading causes of death in the U.S. — heart disease, cancer and stroke — making a persuasive case for banishing meat and dairy from the dinner table.

Then one of her vegan friends told her that some of the experts featured in the movie were coming to a two-day Healthy You Network symposium in May.

“A light went on,” said Roach, a retired Air Force major.

Impressed by the symposium, which drew more than 400 people from throughout Arizona and other states, and was presented by a small group of volunteers, she decided to get involved.

Formed just a few years ago with the goal of educating Southern Arizonans about the benefits of a plant-based lifestyle, the network has held symposiums a couple times a year with nationally known speakers, including the “fathers” of plant-based movement, T. Colin Campbell, (author of “The China Study”) and Dr. Caldwell B. Esselstyn Jr. (author of “Prevent and Reverse Heart Disease”).

A daylong event that packed the Fox Tucson Theatre in September featured speakers that ranged from an ultra-endurance athlete to a cookbook author in addition to doctors.

The message: teach people how to use food as their medicine and incorporate whole foods into their lives.

Roach, who became what she calls a healthy vegan (no french fries or sodas) after that May conference, says she has more energy than ever.

“You can get all your nutrients from eating plants, as long as you are eating a variety of plants,” said Roach, an avid hiker who also works out at a gym.

Last month, the nonprofit opened a resource center that has information in the form of books and DVDs, as well as merchandise and a kitchen for food demonstrations and potlucks. It is also a meeting venue for volunteers and a space for the network’s smaller events.

The network plans to roll out its first membership program at VegFest, a free daylong symposium it’s holding on Sunday at Hilton Tucson East, 7600 E. Broadway. The membership will include discounts at 10 local businesses.

The top reason people give for wanting to learn about plant-based nutrition is to improve their health, Roach said. Animal welfare is probably No. 2, followed by a growing concern for the environment.

One of its volunteers is Ben Braman, a 36-year-old website developer active in Tucson’s vegan community.

“More and more people are questioning where their food comes from and examining the health consequences of that and sometimes the ethical consequences,” he said. “I’m really excited to see how this continues to grow.”

He was also looking forward to Sunday’s event.

VegFests have been springing up across the country and have become extremely popular in communities such as Portland, Ore., and Boston.

Tucson’s first VegFest will be the Healthy You Network’s biggest free event to date. The nonprofit has already scheduled the event for two days next November.

Tidbits and morsels

If you go

Free screenings

Healthy You Network is sponsoring a free screening of the documentary "Processed People."  Milton Mills, M.D. will introduce the movie and take questions afterwards.

• When: 3 p.m. Saturday.

• Where: The Loft Cinema,

• Admission: Free.

VegFest Tucson

• What: Expo with lectures, fashion show, vendors, kids activities, music and more.

• When: 9 a.m.-5 p.m. Sunday

• Where: Hilton Tucson East, 7600 E. Broadway.

• Admission: Free; suggested donation of a can of beans for the Community Food Bank of Southern Arizona.

The lineup

9:15-10:15 a.m. — Caleb Torres, “Science and Ancient Whole Food, Plant-Based Approaches”

10:15 - 11:15 a.m. — June E. Stevens, N.M.D., on "Essential Nutrients for a Plant-Based Diet."

11:30 a.m. - 12:30 p.m. — Robert Cheeke, vegan bodybuilder who wrote "Vegan Bodybuilding & Fitness."

12:45 - 1:30 p.m. — Fashion show by Fed by Threads.

1:45 - 3 p.m. — Milton Mills, M.D., “Are Humans Designed to Eat Meat?” Mills is associate director of preventive medicine with the Physicians Committee for Responsible Medicine.

3 - 4 p.m. — Janice and Bryon Smith of Sunizona Family Farms in Willcox will talk about "veganic" gardening.

4 - 5 p.m. — Tucson Organic Gardeners on "Healthy Soil, Healthy Plants, Healthy People."

There's an app for that

PlantEaters Meal Finder is a new app that's attempting to build a database of the vegan and vegetarian dishes served at local restaurants. Geared toward diners who are tired of settling for the house salad or feeling like they're high-maintenance when dining with meat-eating friends, it encourages users to share their discoveries.

Find it at getplanteaters.com 

Tucson vegan and vegetarian meet-up group

This group, which counts more than 800 members, holds monthly events, including restaurant gatherings, film screenings and cooking demonstrations. "Almost every day someone is joining," said Ben Braman, one of the organizers. It's free to join. Just go to meetup.com/veggies

A few restaurants to try

Food for Ascension Cafe, 330 E. Seventh St., foodforascension.org

Lovin' Spoonfuls Vegetarian Restaurant, 2990 N. Campbell Ave., lovinspoonfuls.com

Mexico in Season, 3820 S. Palo Verde Road, more info on La Tauna Tortillas Facebook page

Sparkroot Coffee Bar & Fare, 245 E. Congress St., sparkroot.com

Urban Fresh, 73 E. Pennington St., urbanfreshtucson.com

Healthy You Network also lists restaurants that offer whole food, plant-based options or that are willing to modify a menu item for those following a plant-based diet: healthyyounetwork.org

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