Last days in Kenya have highlights for students

Last week we went to the town of Nyeri to visit a museum about Kikuyu culture and the Mau Mau movement.

The Kikuyu are the largest ethnic group in Kenya and this region is their traditional homeland. Unfortunately, when the early Europeans arrived they basically took the land as their own, creating the White Highlands. Native Reserves were set up for the Africans, which over time became overcrowded.

The Kikuyu worked on the white settlers' farms and were allowed to cultivate a couple of acres per family to supplement their low wages. Africans were not, however, able to own land in the White Highlands.

This eventually led to the Mau Mau movement, which is short for "Mzungu aenda ulaya, Mwafrika apate uhuru," or "European go away, Africans now have freedom." The Mau Mau were a group of freedom fighters living in the forests of Mount Kenya and around Nyeri.

We were honored to meet two former Mau Mau fighters who lived in the forest from 1952 to 1960. They described their difficult life in the forest and how they would hide from the British soldiers in caves or in the higher branches of tall trees. They also explained a secret oath that all Mau Mau fighters were required to take, pledging to force the white man from Africa regardless of the costs.

A surprise flight

During our time thus far three students have turned 18, so I wanted to surprise them with something special. A close friend is a pilot here and he arranged a 12-seat airplane for an hour flight around Mount Kenya. I made up a story that we needed to be at an organic herb farm at 8 a.m. for a tour, which meant no one was sleeping in that day. When we arrived at the airstrip the students were looking at each with much irritation. I then told them that we were going to see an herb farm from an airplane.

The flight was fantastic. We flew up to the main peaks, seemingly so close that you could touch the rocks and snow. We flew between two of the main peaks, Nelion at 17,000 and Point John, and the plane bounced around like a ping-pong ball.

From there we went to a group of 21 curio shops that are right on the equator. Up until then the students hadn't had an opportunity to buy any African art as presents, and this was their opportunity. I warned them that they would have to play hardball bargaining with the vendors if they were going to get a good deal, and they were ready for it. The students did a great job of talking in Kiswahili and trying to get a good deal with their purchases. I have a feeling that no one ever gets a good deal with these vendors, but that is fine as these Kenyans need to make a living and it was fun to infuse some cash into their little businesses.

Renewed appreciation

I recently asked the students how their perspective on the opportunities we have in America has changed after teaching and living in Kenya. All of them responded that they were very fortunate for the myriad of choices and possibilities available to them. Some of these opportunities were simply handed to them, such as a comfortable home, paved roads, electricity, books and an education.

Some they knew they had to work for, such as higher education and the possibility of graduate school. Compared to the challenges the Kenyan students faced, these American students knew their lives were very different.

The St. Gregory students also recognized that while these Kenyans didn't have all the luxuries the Americans enjoyed at home, they still smiled, laughed, learned and enjoyed life just the same.

It didn't matter that their schools had a dirt floor or that the soccer ball they played with was nothing more than a gathering of plastic bags and twine. They could still kick it, score goals and enjoy playing.