Planning, practice put Janos' spot in order

Wilder's newly hired staff of about 30 huddles in the restaurant, about half in the kitchen cooking, the other half sitting in booths with makeshift tables pulled up to the banquettes, which hug an exposed brick wall.

They've already had almost a week of training at Wilder's foothills restaurants, learning about customer service, wine, food, the Janos way of doing business. Gallery owner Terry Etherton, Tucson Mayor Bob Walkup, and downtown historian Ken Scoville, are among those Wilder has asked to come in and talk about the area and the community.

A knowledgeable staff is important to the restaurateur, who has been feeding Tucsonans for 27 years.

Janos restaurant first opened downtown in 1983, at the Tucson Museum of Art's Stevens House. When the museum wanted to expand in 1998, Wilder was pushed out and he moved onto the grounds of the Westin La Paloma Resort.

Though he has built two successful ventures in the foothills, his eponymous restaurant and the less tony J Bar, he always missed downtown. Two years ago, he started looking to return to the city center. When the Barrio Grill closed earlier this year, Wilder quickly settled on the space in the historic Odd Hall building.

He envisioned a restaurant that was mid-priced (the priciest dinner entree is $28; pasta dishes top out at $15), wasn't married to one type of cuisine (the menu incudes dishes with Mexican, Asian and American accents), and would be a hot spot for lunch, dinner, and late night on the weekends.

Renovations include opening the kitchen with a view to the dining room, expanding the bar, replacing booths with tables, and exposing a brick wall. When he is done, 37 tables fit into the space, as well as a bar that seats about 25.

Wilder wants to make sure his return is marked with good food and fine service.

He received more than 100 applications for jobs at the new restaurant, many from his usual form of recruiting on Craigslist, and hired about 30 in time for the pre-opening training. Ultimately, Downtown Kitchen employs 44.

"I'm looking for a combination of intelligence, good strong personality, and experience," he says, listing job requirements in order of preference.

Wilder paces back and forth this Sunday night, approving plans, looking at graphics, making sure all is well in the kitchen where Bruce Yim, the executive chef, is helping prepare everything on the menu for the staff to sample.

Wilder and Yim fashioned the opening menu together; he says Yim will eventually have full responsibility for the menu.

The hands-on service training is left to Downtown Kitchen's manager, Kristian Unvericht, who has worked with Wilder for years, and his assistant manager, John Silverman.

They assign teams of two to each table. One is the server, the other the buser.

Staff members without assignments play the customers.

The servers and busers take faux orders, answer questions, pour water - role play as though their fellow workers were actual customers.

Buser Erica Bacher, a University of Arizona junior who previously worked with Silverman at a restaurant, leans over an extra large table, struggling to reach a glass to fill with water.

"Ask the guest to pass the glass if you can't reach it," Silverman advises as he keeps an eye on the table. Bacher acknowledges the advice, and then begins to lay down the knives and forks.

"The blade of the knife always goes in," Silverman says to the table. "Think the knife protects the spoon from the fork."

He turns his attention to the servers going through "reps" - repetitions of taking orders.

"Remember to start with drink orders," says Silverman. "Be aware of body language - no crossed arms, no texting. Don't start out with yes or no questions. Make it easy for guests to make choices."

Those sitting at the tables take notes furiously, exchange tips, and ask questions.

Silverman, who flits from table to table making adjustments and offering suggestions, stops to talk to a group of servers at one table.

"It's all about timing," he says. "Always ask 'May I' - 'May I take your order?' 'May I get you more bread?' 'May I suggest a wine?' And remember the guest is your guest until they walk out the door."

It's Bacher's turn to get up and bus a table again. She leans in to pour a glass of water, and it dribbles across the table. She tsks, wipes it up, and tries again on another empty glass. Still dripping.

Monday, the next day, is a "soft opening."

Wilder has put out a call on his blog about Downtown for volunteers to come in and have a free meal so that his staff can practice on real guests; he selects about 30 of the more than 200 who signed up.

The servers and busers are still tentative, looking to Wilder and the managers for guidance. But the service is smoother than it was the night before. They have the week to practice on non-paying customers, and each day brings them more confidence.

A week later, Monday, Oct. 18. The restaurant opens for paying customers. It was suppose to have been a full night, but a shooting only a couple blocks away throws everyone for a loop. Nearby streets are blocked off. A number of reservations have cancelled and Downtown Kitchen + Cocktails is about one-third full.

But inside the big doors that open onto South Sixth Avenue, things are running smoothly. Hostess Tanya Constantine has learned her lessons well. She greets customers warmly at the door, checks off reservations, and guides diners to their tables.

Bacher is working this evening, her dark hair pulled back in a ponytail and her apron crisp.

"Good evening," she says with a bright smile as she leans over to pour water.

She doesn't spill a drop.

Nov. 5: Downtown Kitchen + Cocktails has been open three weeks.

"It's going great," says Wilder. Generally, he would expect it to take about two or three months for the service to get into the zone.

"But," he says, "Downtown is so ahead of the curve. We came out of the gate doing quite well, and we hit our stride within two weeks. That's amazingly fast."

If you go

• What: Downtown Kitchen + Cocktails

• Where: 135 S. Sixth Ave.

• Contact: 623-7700; downtownkitchen.com

• Hours: Lunch, 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m. Mondays through Fridays.

• Dinner, 5-10 p.m. Mondays through Saturdays and 4-10 p.m. Sundays.

• Happy hour: 4-6 p.m. daily.