Back in the day, before taco stands were on every other corner and before Taco Bell cornered the market on Mexican fast food, there was El Taco.
At one time, the Tucson area was home to some 20 El Taco franchises.
Today, there's only one El Taco in town, and the chain itself went belly up years ago.
The humble eatery on North Country Club Road and East Glenn Street is owned by Thomas Stockton and his sister, Gena Stockton. They took over from their parents, who bought the place 30 years ago.
"It's an old building, but we do what we can to keep it going," Thomas Stockton said after lunch rush the other day. "My parents bought it originally, but we've been running it for 20 years now."
The ambience is early fast-food dreariness, with four ancient-looking yellow booths inside and four concrete benches outside. It's comfortable enough, and the staff is friendly and efficient.
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Outside, the restaurant retains the former franchise's big, bright sign depicting a shifty-eyed guy in a sombrero.
The forlorn-looking place has no trouble drawing customers, that's for sure.
On recent visits for both breakfast and lunch, the drive-through window was busy with truckfuls of hungry construction workers and other blue-collar types.
Taco.
Tostada.
Bean Burro.
Tamale.
Those words are emblazoned above the entrance, and the no-nonsense simplicity is reflected on the menu.
Think comfort food and you're not far off.
If you want a really good taco, this really isn't the place for you. But if you're looking for a hefty breakfast burro — the kind that easily fills you up until lunchtime — this little restaurant has got you covered. The eggs were perfectly cooked, with big chunks of sausage and plenty of yellow cheese.
The green chile burro was just as filling, but less tasty. The co-owner says he sticks to the original El Taco recipes whenever he can.
"We make our own beans from scratch," he said. "And we use canola oil only. No lard at all."
El Taco, which isn't open for dinner, isn't the type of joint where you take a date.
It's where you take an appetite.
• What: A casual Mexican eatery.
• Where: 2825 N. Country Club Road.
• Hours: 7 a.m. to 6 p.m. weekdays; 9 a.m. to 4 p.m. Saturdays and closed Sundays.
• Parking: Plenty.
• Phone: 326-0580.
The Bill
$3.35 green chile burro.
$3.35 breakfast burro with egg, cheese and sausage.
$1.59 taco.
$1.59 tostada.
$1.39 soft drink.
Total, not including tax: $11.27.
