Tucson to get first ice cream shop that pasteurizes its cream

2014-07-03T00:00:00Z 2014-07-03T12:35:21Z Tucson to get first ice cream shop that pasteurizes its creamBy Cathalena E. Burch Arizona Daily Star Arizona Daily Star

The Screamery will open July 12 with 16 inventive flavor concoctions that include cotton candy, and stout beer and chocolate complemented by chocolate-covered pretzels.

But what separates it from other ice cream shops will be the big stainless steel pasteurization machine in the kitchen.

That will allow owner Kenny Sarnoski to control every step in the ice cream creation process, starting with the base. The Screamery is the first one in Tucson — and one of only a handful nationwide — that will pasteurize its own cream.

“I will be able to do whatever I want with my base. I can add anything I choose during the pasteurization process,” said Sarnoski, who owns the 1,500-square-foot shop at 50 S. Houghton Road with his wife, Linda. “There is just an abundance of flavors you could do when you pasteurize. If dirt tasted good, you could do that.”

Sarnoski, who until April worked for his father at Architectural Openings Inc., has the state and federal OKs, and a 15-gallon pasteurizer shipped from a manufacturer in Maryland earlier this month to start making ice cream from step one.

Traditional ice cream shops start with a premade cream base and introduce flavors in the last step of the process — as the cream swirls around the ice cream machine. Sarnoski will infuse the flavors during the pasteurization, heating the flavorings with the cream, milk, sugar and eggs to 155 degrees for 30 minutes. The mixture is then put in a cold bath for about an hour to chill to 50 degrees before it’s refrigerated for up to 24 hours where “all the sciencey stuff happens” to infuse the flavors, he said.

Sarnoski said The Screamery will use only organic ingredients, including milk from grass-fed cows, eggs and sugar.

Sarnoski and his wife stumbled onto the idea of making their own ice cream when the family — they have two daughters — started the paleo diet nearly two years ago. “We wanted to find a way to have ice cream the paleo kind of way.”

That meant making it at home in a $40 ice cream machine using coconut milk. It wasn’t ice cream, but it was a frozen, creamy treat that “was actually pretty decent,” he said.

His Screamery ice creams, obviously, do not follow the paleo diet. Included in his 16 flavors of ice cream, Sarnoski said he also will offer a blackberry sangria sorbet with red wine and a couple of coconut milk treats. He also plans to introduce gluten-free frozen delights.

Contact reporter Cathalena E. Burch at cburch@azstarnet.com or 573-4642.

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