Art of the ‘choke: Supermarket freezer case unlocks key to weeknight rendering

This is when a good frozen product comes in handy, and I’ve found frozen artichokes to have good texture and flavor. Plus, they’re already trimmed, cooked and even quartered, requiring just a few minutes more heat to get them ready, especially if you pop them in the microwave.

Here they ground a pasta dish, made with shells to mimic the shape of the baby ‘chokes. Lemon zest brightens their flavor while a little cream adds richness.

Pasta Shells With Artichokes

• 1 pound medium pasta shells (conchiglie)
• 1 package (1 pound) frozen baby artichokes or artichoke hearts or 2 packages (9 ounces each)
• 2 tablespoons olive oil
• 1 clove garlic, chopped
• 1/4 teaspoon salt
• 1/2 cup dry white wine
• 2 to 4 tablespoons cream
• 1/2 cup chopped Italian parsley
• 1/2 cup brine-cured green olives (not canned or jarred), quartered
• Zest of 1 lemon
• 1/2 cup grated pecorino Romano cheese, plus more for serving

Cook the pasta in a large pot of well-salted boiling water over high heat until al dente. Meanwhile, thaw the artichokes in the microwave according to package directions. (It is OK if the artichokes are not completely thawed; they will continue to cook in the skillet.)

Heat the olive oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat; add the garlic. Cook until fragrant, but don’t allow to brown or burn, 1 minute. Add the artichokes; season with the salt. Cook to warm through. Stir in the wine; reduce the heat to medium. Allow to reduce slightly. Stir in 2 to 4 tablespoons cream, as you like; cook to thicken slightly, about 2 minutes. Stir in the parsley, olives and lemon zest.

Drain the pasta; return to the pot. Toss the artichokes, sauce and Romano cheese with the pasta. Serve, passing more grated Romano at the table.

Per serving: 641 calories, 18 g fat, 5 g saturated fat, 19 mg cholesterol, 97 g carbohydrates, 23 g protein, 646 mg sodium, 10 g fiber