Om's fare reaches nirvana

That was quite clear with the first look at the tuna tower appetizer ($12).

It was a fat layer of sweet sushi rice on the bottom, creamy avocado in the middle, ruby red ahi on top, with a swipe of wasabi somewhere in there, and a drizzle of a soy-based sauce made with just a hint of cilantro.

After a few moments of meditating on the glorious-looking dish, we dug in.

The textures - all variations on silky - mingled beautifully; the ahi was practically flapping it was so fresh; and the sushi rice flirted with sour, thanks to the vinegar, and sweet, courtesy of the sugar.

We had been disappointed when Neo Melaka closed at this site at the northwest corner of River Road and Campbell Avenue.

The Malaysian menu and the graceful ambience made it a personal favorite.

Then, owner Allen Yap melded it with his family's first restaurant, Seri Melaka at 6133 E. Broadway, which now has the Neo Melaka name and contemporary look. That was a relief.

Now Yap made us even happier by opening Om in Neo's former space on River.

It's a fusion affair - you'll find fresh sushi (the colorful Yuki Watabe, who owned Yuki Sushi, is the sushi chef) and Asian-influenced fare that makes good use of sauces (a touch of French influence there). John Kujundzic, who came from Hotel ZaZa in Houston, is the chef, and he pays as much attention to looks as he does tastes.

The shrimp and curry bisque ($8), a delicate cream-based soup, had a subtle heat, courtesy of the yellow curry, a large shrimp grilled to keep its sweet flavor and a long crostini spiked with coriander.

It was a sophisticated soup that carried an elegance as rich as the flavor - a theme that repeated itself over two visits.

The crab cakes ($9) looked like oversized tater tots rather than the flattened circles that are the norm. And here's what else isn't the norm: They were loaded with crab; very little filler was used. The sauce was a classic beurre blanc with a shake or two of red curry.

Vegetarians have limited choices, but oh, what heaven is the udon ($11). The tender (but not too) buckwheat noodles were tossed in a wok with a fat supply of earthy wild mushrooms, crunchy bok choy, and tofu marinated in soy and cooked to keep its firmness. It's a thoughtful, tasty dish that deserves to be eaten slowly.

As does the duck breast ($16): slices of pink duck sweetened up with a kumquat sauce and sitting on creamy mashed potatoes; two chunks of tempura that did not at all detract from the sublime taste of the foie gras that was hidden in the middle of the crispy coating; and seared bok choy with its tender, deep-green leaves and white crunchy stalk.

The tenderloin ($15) also came in slices, arranged artfully on a mound of mashed potatoes spiked with sesame oil. A few stalks of just barely resistant broccolini gave the dish its vegetable component, and a rich demi-glace sauce spiked with shiitakes lent a French accent.

With Watabe at the sushi bar, it seemed important to try the fish - his Yuki Sushi was one of our favorites.

The spicy tuna roll ($6.60) did not disappoint. Lots of fresh tuna is rolled up with sushi rice, a thin sheet of seaweed and enough chile to clear the sinuses.

The eight-piece omakase ($11.60) - chef's choice of nigiri sushi - was a celebration of swimmingly fresh fish, raw and fat with flavor, sitting on a finger of sushi rice and a pinch of wasabi. There was the near-peach sea bass, firm, dense and slightly sweet; tender and mild yellowtail; bright orange and rich salmon; red, flavorful ahi; the delicate, pale yellow halibut; and (at a special request) octopus, which wasn't nearly as chewy as it generally is.

The small dessert menu (all desserts are $6) offers a mango mousse torte that includes a white-chocolate brownie and a hint of anise, and a dense flourless chocolate cake that's served with a hazelnut truffle and drizzled with a foamy sabayon laced with ginger.

Om's prices top out at $19 for dinner entrees. But the ambience - lighter than when Neo Melaka was there, with more booths, brighter lights, and beige and black accents - and, especially, the food make it feel like a much pricier restaurant.

The service was thoughtful, conversation was possible, and, yes, the restaurant was a blissful dining experience. Ommmmm.

Review

Om Modern Asian Kitchen

1765 E. River Road, 299-7815.

• Hours: 11 a.m.-10 p.m., Sundays through Wednesdays, 11 a.m.-midnight. Thursdays through Saturdays.

• Family call: The sophisticated fare matched with the ambience makes it more of a grown-up place.

• Noise level: Tolerable.

• Vegetarian choices: Limited.

• Dress: Casual.

• Reservations: Accepted.

• Price range: $$$.

• Wine list: Limited.