A place to claim a steak

But stop in for lunch or dinner at this downtown restaurant - A Steak in the Neighborhood - and you'll find that the kitchen staff is all about food-focused work, not play, when it comes to providing a memorable dining experience.

If first impressions matter (and they do), the restaurant at 135 E. Congress St. makes a good one.

Tucked artfully into a deep, fairly narrow space with a high ceiling, A Steak presents an open, airy atmosphere as you enter. Moments later, when you're seated along dark-paneled walls across from the uncluttered bar, you might feel a sort of urban, clubby vibe.

The ultimate measure of a restaurant, of course, is the food - not the décor.

A Steak in the Neighborhood, owned by Luke Cusack and managed by Karen Markovich, has staked its claim as a champion of steak since it opened in November.

We savored two steak offerings during a recent dinner visit, but not before priming our palates with a pair of appetizers.

The Texas Toothpicks ($4) awakened the taste buds, but not in a startling way, with mild green chile strips that were breaded, fried and served with ranch dressing.

For a cool, clean follow-up, we turned to the Tomato Feta Plate ($6) - featuring tomato slices, marinated feta cheese, extra-virgin olive oil and herbs.

Then it was bring on the meat.

The 10-ounce prime center-cut filet ($24) was a thick, straight-on steak - dry-aged to tender perfection. We amped it up, but just subtly, with just a portion of the rosemary peppercorn sauce served on the side.

The filet, which is also available in a 6-ounce cut for $18, is normally served with a seasonal vegetable medley and brown rice. We asked for a substitution of garlic mashed potatoes for the rice and received it at no extra charge.

After considering a couple of interesting chicken dishes for a second entree, we decided that, hey, this is a steak place, and we like steak.

Our choice: Filet Diane ($16). A fetching presentation of sliced filet mignon enhanced with a blend of mushrooms, onions, herbs and spices in a cognac cream sauce, the dish was finished with brown rice and seasonal vegetables.

As we threw calorie consciousness to the winds, it was pure pleasure to indulge in every last dribble of the cream sauce.

The dessert menu offered only three choices. We went with the New York Cheesecake ($6). Handsome on the plate and gently sweet, the cheesecake was pleasing in its own way - but not nearly as dry, dense and cheese-intense as we expect in a great New York version of this dessert.

On a lunch visit, we began with the Tapas Platter ($11), a plate of charcuterie goodness. Rolls of provolone, prosciutto, pepperoncini, feta triangles and a medley of walnuts, apple slices and oranges circled the platter.

It came with sides of pesto spread and olive tapenade to slather on slices of white bread and toasted pita crisps. A heaping bowl of olives sat in the middle of the platter. It was enough for a party of four.

When we ordered the Chicken Philly Cheese Steak ($7), we weren't asked which way we wanted it prepared. It came out Philly style with melted cheese. Diners usually have a choice of original, primo or Philly style.

The bread was soft and thick, the onions had a hint of sweetness, and the cheese was flavorful without being too salty, but the chunks of chicken were just too dry to make it a sandwich to savor.

Sandwiches come with chips and a pickle. For the chips, we substituted wonderful, crispy, beer-battered fries and a house-made pasta salad ($1.50 each).

We also tried the Backyard Burger ($7). It was a basic half-pounder dressed out with lettuce, onion, tomato and pickle. While it wasn't the best burger we've ever had, it was one of the best we've had for that reasonable - by today's standards - price.

We decided to end our lunch by sharing a shake in the neighborhood. The Ghirardelli Dark Chocolate Shaving Shake ($5) didn't disappoint.

Thoughtfully split into two glasses, the creamy chocolate shake was dotted with dark chocolate chips and a maraschino cherry.

The service was excellent at our dinner visit - prompt, efficient and fully attentive without being intrusive. At lunch, our server seemed a bit distracted and needed prompting for drink refills.

Review

• What: A Steak in the Neighborhood

• Where: 135 E. Congress St. 624-9800.

• Hours: 11 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. Mondays through Thursdays, 11 a.m. to 3 a.m. Fridays, 5 p.m. to 3 a.m. Saturdays, closed Sundays.

• Family call: Geared toward adult diners, but kids are welcome.

• Alcohol: Full bar and a short list of wines.

• Noise level: Generally moderate, but recorded music sometimes is a bit loud.

• Vegetarian choices: Salads and a veggie sandwich.

• Dress: Casual.

• Reservations: Accepted.

• Price range: Dinner entrees range from $9 to $24.