Let us bow our heads and say thanks: Jason Jonilonis is back.
For years, he made the Westward Look's Gold Room shine as it never had before.
And for a little over a year, Jonilonis did the same for the Grill at Hacienda del Sol.
He left the Grill last summer, and there were a few months there when some of us thought he might take his toque blanche and leave town.
But the food gods smiled on us and found a space for Jonilonis at the Flying V at Loews Ventana Canyon Resort.
He's worked his magic.
There are still the stone floors, great views and open bar. But there is no more made-table-side guacamole (though you can now order it and request that lobster or oysters be added). No more venison on the menu (though there is buffalo sirloin).
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Now, the heart of the menu is the "surf and turf," which offers a load of choices from both the surf and the turf.
Here's how it works: for $39, you get a 5-ounce serving of fish and a 5-ounce serving of meat, a knockout salad and a side dish, such as fresh spinach kicked up with chiles.
Along with that comes a tangy lemon caper beurre blanc sauce or a sweet onion marmalade to dress up the surf side of your plate. For the meaty side, there's a rosemary merlot demi-glace sauce and a chipotle barbecue one.
But we found the sauces weren't necessary — the surf and turf, for the most part, stood on their own.
On the surf side, we fell in love with the ahi, covered in sesame seeds and seared so that the nearly still-flapping tuna was almost raw. Just the way we like it.
The king-crab crab cake doesn't come in cake form — the abundance of meat is cooked up and scooped back into the crab-leg shells. It's a bit crunchy, with butter-braised celery, and a bit unusual, with a touch of tarragon. It was devoured.
The diver scallops, dusted with pulverized popcorn and grilled to keep the scallops' wondrous flavor, were so sublime that we wished there were more than the few on the plate. Lots more.
The only disappointment on the surf side was the shrimp, grilled on a skewer and given a slight kick with a citrus chile marinade. The jumbo shrimp, which were as fresh as could be, were overcooked just enough to make them noticeably rubbery. They come on a sizzling platter, and our guess is they continue to cook after they're off the grill.
On that turf side, it was love at first bite with the veal rib eye, tender and terrifically moist — not always the case with the low-fat meat, which dries out easily.
The organic chicken, dusted with corn, was a juicy piece of white meat, full of flavor we don't often find in chicken these days.
The tenderloin was a tad on the tough side, but the beef short ribs, rich with the burgundy they were braised in, were fall-apart tender. This isn't the best cut of beef, but can be delectable if cooked slowly and correctly. That's what was done here.
There are a few other choices on the menu — such as prime rib and bouillabaisse — if the surf and turf choices don't appeal.
Or perhaps you just want to indulge in the appetizers. They could make a full — and fine — meal.
Such as the oversized margarita glass filled with the ceviche of the day. We sampled a scallop and shrimp one ($9), "cooked" in the citrus juices and served with a tomato-based sauce that was picked up with cilantro and red onions. We shared this appetizer; that was a mistake. Keep it for yourself.
Or just sip the lobster bisque ($9), a hefty bowl of the cream-based soup bursting with the taste of lobster, loaded with chunks of the shellfish and lusciously cut with sherry. Trouble is, sipping this bisque is hard — you want to devour it quickly and then demand more.
Whatever you eat, save room for dessert. There are several choices, but the specialty is soufflé ($9). The chocolate soufflé came to the table poofy and hot. The waitress stuck a spoon in it to let a little air out, then poured in all the crème anglaise we wanted. High-quality chocolate and a traditional preparation for soufflé endeared us to this dessert for all time.
The new menu was introduced just a few weeks ago, and service was a little bumpy on our first visit. Less bumpy on the second. We'd give them another few weeks and we suspect it'll be just where it should be.
Meanwhile, we'll stop in, drink some bisque, have some souffle, and continue our silent thanks that Jonilonis is back.
Review
Flying V at Loews Ventana Canyon
7000 N. Resort Drive, 299-2020
Hours: 5:30-9 p.m, Sundays-Thursdays; 5:30-10 p.m., Fridays-Saturdays; 10:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m. Sunday brunch
Wine list: A wide selection of Old and New World wines
Family call: While kids are welcome, this is a bit pricey for the whole clan
Noise level: Surprisingly — given the bare floors — not bad at all
Vegetarian choices: None on the menu
Smoking: On the patio
Dress: High casual
Reservations: Recommended
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