Maya Quetzal owner Sandra Sanchez says her Tucson restaurant hasn't changed much in the last 15 years.
The food is the same.
The décor is largely untouched.
"Just the prices have gone up a little bit," she laughs. "But only about 25 cents."
Sanchez, who grew up in Guatemala City, says she cleaned houses before she opened her Fourth Avenue eatery.
She learned to cook from her mom, who still lives in the tiny Central American country.
"She's 94 years old now," Sanchez says.
Maya Quetzal is divided into two parts. Colorful tapestries hang on the walls in the front of the restaurant. The top of the walls are painted a pale yellow-green and the bottom half a deep red.
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Near the door there is a large mural depicting women who are bathing their children in a river, with birds in the foreground and a Mayan temple looming in the distance.
"The painting has been there for 15 years," Sanchez says. "The lady who painted it passed away three years ago."
Ceiling fans whir overhead, and the sounds of xylophones and bongo drums play on the stereo.
The back half of the restaurant is an open-air patio — though there is a roof to protect diners from the occasional shower. Tables are decorated with mismatched tablecloths, and guests sit in green plastic chairs.
The service at Maya Quetzal is efficient, not fawning. Our server offered us more chips when we ran out and more water when our glass was empty.
Sanchez says Guatemalan food is less spicy and greasy than Mexican food.
"My favorite is black beans and rice," she says.
We began with complimentary tortilla chips and salsa. The salsa wasn't overly spicy at first bite, but a burn lingered long after the tortilla chips disappeared from the bowl.
I countered the spicy salsa with a tall glass of horchata ($2.85), rice milk sweetened with vanilla, cinnamon and sugar and served over ice.
For my entree I ordered the plato vegetariano ($8.75), one folded corn tortilla stuffed with spinach, walnuts, tomato, onion and garlic and topped with a mild tomato sauce and cheese.
The dish is served with what Sanchez calls her "special rice," which is baked with cheese, sweet corn and sour cream. The rice was warm and comforting — not so different from the comfort food served in one of Atlanta's soulful "meat and three" restaurants, though lighter on the salt.
The pupusas de queso y loroco ($6.50) were equally satisfying. The Salvadoran-style corn tortillas stuffed with cheese and loroco (a Guatemalan vegetable) came garnished with cabbage, tomato sauce and cheese.
My fiance, Suz, ordered the tortitas espinaca ($8.75), grilled spinach patties made with tomato, garlic and walnuts and topped with tomato sauce and served with rice, black beans and salad. She found the patties tasty and said the sweet tomato sauce was a good complement for the spinach, though she found the black beans a little bland.
The menu at Maya Quetzal also boasts chicken, pork and beef dishes. Sanchez says the most popular dish is the chile relleno.That's one more reason to return.
• Where: 429 N. Fourth Ave.
• Phone: 622-8207.
• Hours: 11:30 a.m.-2 p.m. and 5-8 p.m. Mondays through Thursdays, noon-9 p.m. Fridays and Saturdays.
THE BILL:
Horchata, $2.85
Plato vegetariano, $8.75
Pupusas de queso y loroco, $6.50
Tortitas espinaca, $8.75
Total (before tax and tip): $26.85
