When my husband first threw peach slices on our barbecue grill last summer, I thought he'd inhaled too much propane.
Fruit? On a grill?
But the result was delightful: Over ice cream, the natural juices created a tangy sauce that had even the most hardened food critics - our kids - asking for more.
After that, grilled peaches became a staple in our house, jockeying for space on the barbecue grill with peppers, onions and asparagus as favorite side dishes to the steak and chicken usually inhabiting that space.
We're not alone. From backyards to bistros across the country, chefs are finding that grilled fruits add a distinctive taste and dimension to meals, whether as an appetizer, side dish or dessert.
"Fruits are sweet, juicy and bursting with delicious aromas," says food writer and barbecue expert Andrew Schloss in his new grilling epic, "Fire it Up," cowritten with David Joachim (Chronicle Books, $24.95). "The high sugar content makes them ideal for the grill. The sugars melt, brown and caramelize, creating hundreds of new flavors."
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Grilled fruit makes a quick and easy accompaniment to savory dishes, and takes to the dessert spotlight like a star - especially at restaurants such as Fahrenheit in San Jose, where chef Christopher Graze pairs decadent grilled peaches with vanilla ice cream for a memorable dessert.
The allure of grilling, Graze says, is that it adds dimensions to fruit, releasing a sweetness that's hard to match with poached or roasted approaches.
"It's really a new twist on old-school desserts that cook fruits," he says.
Propane grills certainly work for fruit, Graze says, but the smoky flavors provided by charcoal grills add "an earthiness, that can't be found in basic poaching."
Graze prefers hard fruits like apples, pineapples and pears, but softer fruits, such as peaches and papayas, also can be used.
He suggests brushing the fruit slices with a high-temperature oil, like coconut, and heating the grill completely before placing the fruit on it, to make those desirable grill marks.
Nearly any fruit does well on the grill, as long as you bear in mind a few tips before throwing them on the barbie.
• Pome fruits, such as apples, pears and quince, are more fibrous and can withstand longer cooking times. Schloss suggests picking underripe fruits, and coating them with citrus juice once they are cut.
• Stone fruits, such as nectarines, apricots, plums and cherries, are especially well-suited to the barbecue pit. The soft, juicy flesh pairs well with the grill. Use bamboo skewers to keep smaller pieces from slipping through the grate, Graze says, or use a mesh grill tray.
• Melons are also very good grilled - especially watermelons, despite being 92 percent water. Choose firm melons that feel heavy for their size, and cut large "steaks" or slices for grilling.
As watermelon grills, the texture becomes "meatier" and the flavors more concentrated, Joachim says.
• Tropical fruit is perhaps the most popular grilled fruit, thanks in part to the trailblazing ways of grilled pineapple.
However, bananas, mangoes and papayas also make succulent and aromatic grilled fare.
• Citrus fruit, with their rich flavors. make especially good companions to barbecued fish and chicken.
Classic Grilled Peaches
Serves: 6-8
Note: When grilling fruit, use bamboo skewers to prevent the produce from falling between the grill grates.
• 4-6 nearly-ripe peaches
• Chile oil
• 2 tablespoons brown sugar
• Vanilla ice cream
Core and halve the peaches, keeping the skin on. Brush with chile oil. Grill 1-2 minutes.
Remove from grill; slice and toss with brown sugar, and serve over ice cream.
Christopher Graze, Fahrenheit Restaurant, San Jose, Calif.

