First impressions are important. The Great Wall of China gives a good one.
The well-lit, airy restaurant with bamboo accents re-opened under Sakura Teppan Steak, Seafood and Sushi owner Kwang C. An and his wife, Christina, four months ago. Judging from the friendly staff, expansive menu and extensive remodeling, An has done well.
The Ans originally opened Great Wall of China in 1983, then sold it in 1991 to their head chef. The restaurant has since changed hands about four times and had been vacant for about 18 months.
Great Wall's entrance is located in the back, and a friendly hostess immediately greeted us and led us to a booth.
A mix of booths and tables fill the room, and a full bar with a half-dozen barstools facing two flat-screen plasma televisions sits in the corner. No happy-hour specials for now, but An is working on some.
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The very clean restaurant had a smattering of patrons on a recent Tuesday evening. The table settings of shiny black chopsticks and flatware rolled in red cloth napkins didn't stop us from noticing the lack of condiments — sugar, soy sauce, salt or pepper — on any table. Anything requested, though, was delivered immediately.
Usually, too much rice accompanies an entree at a Chinese restaurant. This is one instance when Great Wall disappointed by the rather small bowl set down with our garlic chicken. Kudos, though, for giving diners a choice of brown or white rice.
Back to the garlic chicken ($9.95). A savory mild, but not overpowering, garlic sauce coated red and green peppers, onion, celery, chopped water chestnuts and chunks of lean chicken breast. Not a bite remained from the server-recommended dish.
We also ordered from the Korean Chinese Specialties list. We chose the ambiguous Special Noodle with Special Soup ($10.95) after our server assured us it was tasty.
When it arrived, the soup was brimming with seafood — scallops, jumbo shrimp, calamari and mussels — and vegetables such as mushrooms, zucchini, carrots, snow peas, onions and bamboo shoots. The vegetables and noodles were cooked tendercrisp and al dente, respectively. The vegetable broth, which is boiled for 24 hours, had a bit of a requested kick, thanks to tiny slices of jalapeño peppers. A side of white crunchy pickled radish slices accompanied the soup. An said that no MSG is used on his menu.
Alas, there was no room for either of the two desserts on the menu: the intriguing crispy rice banana ice cream ($4.95) or plain ice cream ($2).
Dinner entrees ranged from $6.95 for chicken fried rice to $39.95 for lobster.
Lunch specials from 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. weekdays cost $6.95-$8.95 and come with egg drop or hot and sour soup, fried or steamed rice, egg roll, chicken wing and a choice of 19 entrees.
• What: A sit-down Chinese restaurant.
• Where: 2445 S. Craycroft Road.
• Hours: 11 a.m.-10 p.m. daily.
• Parking: Plenty in front and back.
• Phone: 514-8888.
THE BILL
• One pot of organic green tea: $2.
• Bowl of Special Noodle with Special Soup: $10.95.
• Garlic Chicken: $9.95.
• Total, before tax and tip: $22.90
