Before there was Jamie Eats there was Ellice Eats.
Back when I was working the breaking news desk, Ellice Lueders had my dream job: the food writer at This Is Tucson.
I would catch up on her stories whenever I had some downtime during my day, making a mental list of what places to check out the next time I was hungry.
Even when she left This Is Tucson, she remained a great source, sending me an extremely kind message that eased all the anxious thoughts that filled my head about starting a new beat.
Now about three years after her departure I needed her expertise once more. It was crucial that I got all her knowledge on a type of cuisine we don’t see here in Tucson very much: German food.
When Biergarten German Kitchen and Bar, at 2320 N. Silverbell Rd., opened last month, people went berserk. It was pretty much impossible to get a table, with people flocking to the restaurant to try schnitzel, giant pretzels and drink mugs full of cold beer.
For the past month, I’ve been keeping my eye on Biergarten, waiting for the right time to strike. After reading a post on the Tucson Reddit page, I came to the conclusion that I could finally go and have a good chance at getting a table.
There was just one problem: I know virtually nothing about German food.
I had no idea what to order or what classic German dishes are the best, so I reached out to my trusted source: Ellice. Ellice is an expert when it comes to German food since she grew up enjoying homemade sauerbraten and rouladen courtesy of her Oma.
So, I sent her over the Biergarten menu and asked her to pick out the perfect German meal for me, and she did not disappoint.
I drove over to Biergarten on Wednesday at noon, feeling confident I’d get a table and a chill, easygoing lunch. As I pulled into the parking lot, my jaw dropped. Parking spaces after parking spaces were full, leaving me wishing I had made a reservation.
When I walked through the doors, I instantly felt like I had been transported across the world. Vines of green leaves hang from the ceiling as waitresses, each wearing dirndl dresses, carefully filled giant mugs with beer, ensuring customers wouldn’t be getting a drink that is mostly foam.
German music filled the restaurant as families sat at tables, laughing and eating their plates of traditional German food. It was a lively scene that didn’t dwindle the whole time I was there.
The row of taps on offer at the Biergarten German Kitchen & Bar, 2330 N. Silverbell Road.
Since I was a party of one, I was able to be quickly seated at the bar. Rows and rows of crystal-clear glasses stared at me from behind the bar, including massive boot-shaped mugs. Maybe one day I’ll be able to chug down a German beer in their fun boot glass, but unfortunately, today was not that day.
While I sat at the bar, I couldn’t help but overhear a waitress talking to a customer. (Hey I’m a journalist, I’m nosey!!) She was telling him that even though the dining area was packed, this was considered a slow day for them, saying that sometimes there are two-hour wait times on the weekends.
It’s safe to say I was extremely thankful to be able to get a seat at the bar.
The first thing Ellice told me to try was a refreshing Apfelsaftschorle, a drink consisting of apple juice and sparkling water. It tasted just like sparkling apple cider, which was a nice cool down for me after spending some time in a blazing hot car. I would definitely recommend it for those who may not want to drink alcohol but still want something fun to sip on.
As cliché as it is, there was no way I was leaving Biergarten without eating a soft pretzel. Thankfully, Ellice suggested I get one! They have normal pretzels that come with their house-made brown mustard or cheese, an extra EXTRA large pretzel and pretzel bites.
A soft pretzel with a house-made brown mustard from Biergarten German Kitchen and Bar.
I went with a normal soft pretzel, coming in the classic twisted shape. I was very excited for this pretzel and was not disappointed! The outer crust was nice and chewy, and the inside was warm and fluffy: exactly how you want your soft pretzel.
It was nearly impossible to stop tearing bite-size pieces off and stuff them into my mouth. I think I could’ve eaten the XXL one all by myself.
I had to remind myself to save myself some room for Ellice’s entrée choice: sauerbraten. Sauerbraten and rouladen, both traditional German dishes, were the meals made by Ellice’s Oma that she would crave.
For those who may not be familiar, Sauerbraten is a pot roast that’s marinated in a blend of aromatics, vinegar and red wine. At Biergarten, it also comes with fresh spaetzle, an egg-based pasta.
I was a little nervous, I wasn’t sure what to expect and what the sauce would taste like. I was going in completely blind and scared I wouldn’t like it.
When I was served my plate of sauerbraten and took a bite, a wave of relief washed over me: it was delicious!
Sauerbraten with fresh spaetzle from Biergarten German Kitchen and Bar.
The pot roast was tender and juicy, with my fork easily going through the meat as I cut into it. What I really loved was the sauce, it was silky, rich and had a tangy flavor to it, pairing nicely with the savory meat.
It took me a while to get used to the spaetzle. I’m a huge texture person, so the slight chewy, soft texture of it threw me for a loop when I first tried it. But as I continued eating it, especially with the sauce on top, I began to like it much more.
After a pretzel and plate full of pot roast, I was stuffed. But, I still had to order dessert. Ellice said to get a slice of bienenstich, a cake with a honey-almond topping and a creamy vanilla filling. This is the cake her Oma would make on special occasions.
You don’t have to tell me twice to order cake. So I got the slice to go and dug into it when I was a little less full.
Just as I
A slice of bienenstich, a cake with a honey-almond topping and a creamy vanilla filling, from Biergarten German Kitchen and Bar.
expected, the cake was scrumptious! It kind of reminded me of a pastry filled with a velvety vanilla filling. It had a gentle sweet taste to it, making me want to try and recreate at home for my family.
Leaving Biergarten, I couldn’t help but feel grateful for Ellice’s expertise and a little sad that I hadn’t been earlier! Next time, I will not only be making a reservation, but I’m chugging a beer out of that boot!
