Mac and cheese — it's one of the most forgiving dishes, inviting us to experiment and play.
But there are a few basics that seem to add up to a better dish.
Here are some pointers from Joan Schwartz, author of "Macaroni and Cheese: 52 Recipes, From Simple to Sublime."
Pay attention to ingredients. Use a fresh cheese that you really like, one with character, she says.
Save the grating for last. Chef Keith Dresser, whose Baked Four-Cheese Pasta is included in Schwartz's book, insists that macaroni and cheese will taste best when the cheese is grated just before use.
Schwartz agrees. Sure, you can get those bags of pre-grated cheese "if your back is against the wall" and you need to kick out a quick dish of mac and cheese. "They're OK, but they're not transcendent." (And you do want transcendent, don't you?)
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Don't overcook the pasta. If a dish is going to be baked, you'll want to cook the pasta until it's just al dente (tender but still slightly firm). The pasta will continue to cook in the oven.
"You don't want a flabby texture," Schwartz says.
Don't skimp. "Don't turn to skim milk or cheeses that are not really good cheese or are low-fat," Schwartz says. Always use whole milk (all of the recipes in Schwartz's book specify whole milk when milk is used).
Why?
"This is comfort food," Schwartz explains. "You don't want to give yourself half a dish of comfort."
