Neiman Marcus has called the high wedge and the chunky platform "two of the most important shoes of the season." Designers from Christian Louboutin to Aldo are filling their collections with them. And for many women tired of teetering on spindly stilettos, the shift to a chunkier style is a welcome relief.
But there's a hitch: Contrary to popular belief, the shoes can be less stable than spike heels — and can cause more injuries. Podiatrists and orthopedic surgeons say the thick, platform-style base of a high wedge doesn't allow the foot to move as naturally as in a shoe with a conventional heel. The result is that more weight is borne by the ball of the foot. Some high wedges also have curved soles, which can make it easy to lose your balance.
"You're already on a pretty high pedestal . . . walking on your tiptoes and then you put a rocker underneath it — I don't think that's a very stable construct," says Dr. Judith Baumhauer, chief of foot and ankle surgery at the University of Rochester.
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Wearing high wedges — some measure as much as 5 inches at the heel — can cause joint inflammation under the big toe, a condition known as sesamoiditis, and damage to the fat under the ball of the foot, doctors say. Stilettos can cause these ailments, too. But some doctors say high wedges are more likely to trigger them because the clunky heels interfere with the foot's natural movement. While conventional heels absorb some of the weight of walking, says Dr. Les Glubo, a New York podiatrist, "with these wedges, the heel is so high . . . it's throwing all the stress of the weight to the front of the foot."
Knee, back or ankle strain is also possible because wedges often weigh more than traditional heels, says Dr. Howard Glickman, president of the American Podiatric Medical Association.
The high wedge is the latest attempt by shoe companies to capitalize on the popularity of heels. Last year, sales of heels more than 3 inches high rose 11 percent, and sales of heels measuring 1.5 inches to 3 inches jumped 20 percent, while sales of flats fell 5.1 percent, according to NPD Group, a Port Washington, N.Y., market researcher.
Shoes have been a big bright spot for the fashion industry, with sales of footwear growing faster than those of apparel. Last year, sales of dressy and casual women's shoes rose 32 percent, NPD says.
The industry has done platforms and wedges before, but many of the current styles use synthetic materials to make the base lighter than in the past, and some incorporate shock-absorbing materials.
Makers say the new high wedges appeal to women who want to add 4 or 5 inches to their height but feel like they are wearing 2- to 4-inch heels (because the ball of the foot sits on a 1- or 2-inch platform). And they suggest pairing the clunky shoes with this season's romantic dresses or skinny pants.
But podiatrists worry that high wedges will contribute to an increase in shoe-related injuries, which they say anecdotal evidence suggests are now at record levels.
Some in the fashion industry shrug off these concerns. At Neiman Marcus, fashion director Ken Downing says: "The thing to remember with fashion is, it's going to last for six months and then there's going to be something else that your fashionista heart is going to crave. So, just enjoy it."
Designer Donald J. Pliner nevertheless says he tries to alleviate strain a big wedge could cause by adding extra padding under the ball of the foot; he also uses lightweight materials such as polyurethane foam. At Aldo, where 25 percent of spring styles are wedges, including a 5-incher, spokeswoman Lori Sternthal says the company uses sturdy, thick straps on higher, heavier shoes to keep them firmly in place.
Yadira Lopez, a Brooklyn, N.Y., insurance agent, says she generally feels more comfortable in wedges than stilettos but adds that the two pairs she owns make her feel "a little unbalanced sometimes." Still, she's considering buying a super-high pair because she likes shoes that add height to her 5-foot-1-inch frame.
