It's all kosher at Downtown eatery/bakery

Literally.

The Downtown bakery and eatery opened May 1 at 47 N. Scott Ave., in the space that formerly housed Touch of Class restaurant.

Executive chef and co-owner Rabbi James Botwright, 35, describes Motzi, which means "to bring forth," as an "artisan bakery with Old World respect with a New Age flair."

Botwright and co-owner Wayne Anderson figured that being situated across from a large parking garage would lure customers.

And it has, Anderson said.

Botwright attended California Culinary Academy in San Francisco in 2000. He also is a rabbi at Temple Kol Hamidbar in Sierra Vista.

Botwright's grandfather is a pastry chef, and his great-grandfather ran a bakery Downtown in the '50s.

"We follow the strict dietary laws called kashrut," Botwright said. "We are kosher dairy, which means we have no meat products in our restaurants."

This dietary law doesn't recognize fish as meat, so Motzi's entrees include four fish dishes that sound — and taste — like they belong at an elegant restaurant.

"I believe your food should be fun and visually appealing," said Botwright, who gets up at 2 a.m. to begin creating the day's foods. "You eat with your eyes first."

The vibe

The narrow Tucson restaurant boasts gleaming Pergo flooring and cheerful gold and yellow walls.

Motzi's assortment of breads and desserts, baked daily, tempt customers from the pastry case and shelves when they first enter.

The helpful staff is eager to answer any questions. Chef Botwright often approached one of the 10 tables inside to comment on dishes or explain items to customers. Outside, six tables with umbrellas can seat 24. Wi-Fi will be available in early August.

They plan to change the menu with the seasons, Botwright said.

Colorful and edible flowers garnish many of the dishes. Orchids and yellow and orange bachelor buttons, among other varieties, are ordered from an herb garden in San Jose, Calif.

All diners receive a cup of traditional hummus and house-baked baguette slices. The smooth chickpea and olive oil purée provides a tingly jolt to the taste buds from paprika and cayenne.

The food

Even the diet root beer is kosher here; neither Coke nor Pepsi is served. The coffee is roasted in-house.

Lunch begins at 11 a.m. A fairly limited menu is composed of two soups, four salads and five entrees. A pasta of the day ($7.95) is whatever strikes Botwright's fancy.

We started with the Caprese ($7.95) salad, which featured slices of yellow and red heirloom tomatoes from California. Balls of baby buffalo mozzarella were mixed with field greens, feathery chervil, cilantro and baby basil. Aged balsamic reduction was drizzled over the top, providing tartness.

Botwright adds a scoop of Motzi's bruschetta to the Caprese. The juices from the diced tomatoes, lemon, julienned artichoke hearts, basil, chervil, green onions and deep-fried capers give it a Middle Eastern flavor.

The pan-roasted salmon ($8.95) was a sizable 7-ounce fillet. The fish is rubbed with spices that include cinnamon, turmeric, curry, cardamom, salt and pepper.

First placed in a smoking pan for a quick searing, the fish is finished on the grill. The line-caught Atlantic salmon came out medium and dazzled with its simplicity and utter freshness.

Microgreens and balsamic reduction topped the fish, which also lay on a bed of organic greens. The greens were so fresh they tasted like the restaurant cultivates a secret garden in back.

Another main dish, the seared ahi ($9.95), came beautifully plated, with four thick cuts of fish next to a delicate pile of lettuce topped with a raspberry vinaigrette.

The ahi was a challenge to cut and chewier than we thought it would be, but traveled warm and tangy down our throats, thanks in part to the Sephardic wasabi-infused peppercorn citrus sauce.

About 15 types of desserts are created each day, and the nine breads baked daily include sourdough, challah and whole wheat. There's even diabetic sweet bread.

The cherry danish ($2.50) is also made at Motzi, and it is divine. Pillowy layers of delicate pastry dough are nestled around a center with Michigan tart cherries. Sometimes other fruits are used, such as raspberries and apricot.

Motzi Nouvelle Patisserie

• Where: 47 N. Scott Ave.

• Hours: 7 a.m.-3 p.m. Mondays-Fridays.

• More info: 622-0045.

The Bill

Caprese salad: $7.95.

Pan-roasted fillet of salmon: $8.95.

Seared ahi: $9.95.

Cherry danish: $2.50.

Total, before tax and tip: $29.35.