The way Roger Sliker sees it, you've got muffin people and scone people. Count most of Raging Sage Coffee Roasters' customers in that second camp.
"We sell out of them every day," Sliker — who owns the little coffeehouse at 2458 N. Campbell Ave. with his family — says of the craggy, crunchy-on-the-outside-but-muffin-tender-inside scones.
Raging Sage, now entering its ninth year in business, was selling scones right from the beginning. At the time, few other places were, Sliker said.
In those early days, the coffeehouse — which used to be a home — made 10 batches a day, about 60 scones, in its small, residential kitchen.
These days, bakers crank out 25 batches, varying from traditional orange-currant to the unusual but extremely popular pecan-sage. People have been known to call ahead and make sure those slightly sweet, sage-scented scones are available before charging in.
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At the Chocolate Iguana on 4th, 500 N. Fourth Ave., baker Courtney Conklin makes clever pairings like an espresso-glazed cappuccino-chip scone or a seasonal spicy-glazed pumpkin scone.
But over at Tudor Rose Tea Room, 2029 S. Craycroft Road, scones are a very traditional affair — usually plain and served with clotted cream and jam.
No matter which kind of scones you're making, the bakers at all three local haunts agree the trick to crafting a great pastry is a light hand.
"You definitely don't want to overmix," says Conklin, who's been whipping up scones for five years.
Although some recipes call for using a food processor, Sliker says you're better off skipping mechanical equipment and using a low-tech pastry blender.
Jackie Grassmyer — who hails from England and makes Tudor Rose's scones — sticks to her fingers.
"I do it by feel," she says.
So, if you want to make scones, don't get hung up on the recipe. Instead, perfect your technique.
One recent morning Raging Sage baker Matt Munsey made more than a dozen batches of scones — including cherry-chocolate chip, ginger and savory treats like chile relleno and rosemary-potato — in a white Maytag double oven. We picked up some tricks, even if we couldn't weasel a recipe.
scrumptious scones
Glazed Maple-Walnut Scones
These oversize scones have a light, muffinlike texture. The golden glaze adds a sweet, firm coating. Pack them along with a thermos of hot coffee for an early morning outing.
Makes 6
u 2 cups all-purpose flour
u 3/4 cup (packed) golden-brown sugar, divided
u 1 teaspoon baking powder
u 1/2 teaspoon baking soda
u 1/2 teaspoon salt
u 10 tablespoons (1 1/4 sticks) chilled unsalted butter, cut into 1/2-inch cubes, divided
u 3/4 cup walnuts, toasted, broken into pieces
u 1/2 cup buttermilk
u 2 large egg yolks
u 1 teaspoon maple extract
u 2 tablespoons whipping cream
u 1/2 cup powdered sugar
u 1/2 teaspoon mild-flavored (light) molasses
Position rack in center of oven and preheat to 400 degrees. Combine flour, 1/4 cup brown sugar, baking powder, baking soda and salt in large bowl; whisk to blend. Add 6 tablespoons butter; using fingertips, rub in until butter is reduced to pea-size pieces. Mix in walnuts. Whisk buttermilk, egg yolks and maple extract in medium bowl. Add to flour mixture. Toss with fork until dough comes together in moist clumps. Gather dough into ball. Press out dough on lightly floured surface to 8-inch round; cut into 6 wedges.
Arrange wedges 1 inch apart on ungreased baking sheet. Bake until tester inserted into centers comes out clean, about 16 minutes; transfer to rack.
Whisk remaining 1/2 cup brown sugar, 4 tablespoons butter and cream in heavy small saucepan over low heat until sugar dissolves. Remove pan from heat. Whisk in powdered sugar and molasses. Spread glaze over warm scones. Let stand until glaze sets, at least 30 minutes.
"The Bon Appétit Cookbook" by Barbara Fairchild (John Wiley & Sons, $34.95)