Around this time last year — when I was working as a cheesemonger at a specialty store up in Northern California — my hands would begin to tremble every time a bearded man walked in the door.
Not that I don't like facial hair, or the people behind it. It's just that, well, the younger bearded hipsters that walked into our shop were usually after one thing: soft, stinky cheese that upon unwrapping, assaulted the entire room with the unwholesome odor of wet feet.
At 9 a.m. sometimes, these people would come in, hopped up on $4 cups of shade-grown coffee and ready to taste every stinker in the case. The intense odors got more ridiculous as they went on, gregariously, savoring each flavor as their eyes rolled back in their heads. (For pleasure or pain, I'm still not sure.)
I miss that. Maybe it's because I don't have to touch all the cheese anymore, but as November gets into swing, I hope more Tucsonans will get into this full-flavored fall treat! Now that the weather is below 90, we can really start to enjoy the weightier aspects of life, which may take more work, but always seem to taste better when they go down.
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WHAT'S A STINKY CHEESE? Good question! If you can't smell it yet, there's a chance you can see it. Stinky cheeses often feature a reddish orange rind, attained from washing the wheels in salted water. (Or if you're fancy: beer, wine or liquor.) This washing process encourages a certain bacteria called brevibacterium linens, or brevi linens for short, which lowers the acidity of the cheese and creates that pungent flavor. Cool fact: This bacteria is the exact same one that causes foot odor. So cheese that smells like feet, really does smell like feet!
WHY DO PEOPLE LIKE IT? Once you get beyond the smell, washed-rind cheeses are some of the most delicious offerings of the cheese world. The great runny Epoisses of Burgundy, washed in local brandy, is luscious and sweet, with a powerful kick. The Italian Taleggio, yeasty and earthy like hay, makes the greatest pasta sauce of all time. Oh my, the firmer Spanish slicers and the fruity Portuguese plumpers, brightened with rennet from a thistle. There are so many wonderful varieties ...
OKAY, I'M HOOKED: Here are some of my favorites, all available in Tucson ...
Delice du Jura, France: To the novices, this buttery soft cheese is more like a stronger version of Brie. But the nutty spreader is actually fashioned after the famous Reblochon of the Savoie, which due to regulations is no longer available in the United States. Available at Rumrunner, 3131 E. 1st St., for $19.99 for a 7-inch wheel.
Stinkometer rating: 3
Herve Mons Camembert: The real Camemberts of Normandy, France are much more meaty and mushroomy than the ones made stateside. The Herve Mons version at Whole Foods is an excellent example of soft, stinky heaven. The affineur, or cheese ager, Herve Mons is kind of a rock star in France, and has an exclusive line at Whole Foods. (I met him once when I was in California. He smoked a lot.) Available at various Whole Foods locations, $9.99 for 5-inch wheel.
Stinkometer rating: 6
Red Hawk, from Cowgirl Creamery: This organic Marin County, California-based dairy is very popular, and for good reason. The bacteria in their Red Hawk actually comes from a natural strain that moves down the coast to Point Reyes. The cheese is sweet and syrupy, with a savory cured meat flavor to back it up. Available at Blu, 100 S. Avenida del Convento, at $2.32 per ounce. Also available at Wilko, 943 E. University Blvd., for $6 a la cart, or on their cheese board.
Stinkometer rating: 5
Grayson, from Meadow Creek Dairy: The onion and beef smell on this square-rinded cheese only hints at its rich, complex flavor. Grayson is named after a county in the Virginia Highlands, where it comes from. Unlike many other cheeses made stateside, it was actually inspired by a trip to Ireland and Wales. Available at Blu, $2.15 per ounce.
Stinkometer rating: 8!
