Cheesy.
How is it that that the word — which symbolizes the ultimate in ooey-gooey food pleasure — came to become a put-down for lameness? We say it's time to reclaim the original meaning, and Vero Amore is going to lead the charge.
Every day the locally owned restaurant makes about 20 pounds of fresh mozzarella cheese. Mozzarella makers start with cheese curd and dump golf-ball-size hunks into a vat of nearly 200-degree water. In go a cup of sea salt, a spill of heavy cream and a fat broomstick, which stirs the molten mix until it smooths and stretches into a dripping, taffylike sheet. Then the cheese is plunged into an ice bath and formed into balls.
Fresh mozzarella, plucked from the searing water, is pure joy — it tastes creamy, with the salty tease of a spray of ocean water. No wonder pizza made with it is so, so good. Now that's cheesy.
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Try the fresh-made mozzarella at Vero Amore, 3305 N. Swan Road (at East Camp Lowell Bashas' shopping center). Take home a 1 1/2- to 2-pound ball for $8 or sample it in some of the entrees.

