Cibaria Cucina Italiana is a find. Literally.
The address seems simple enough - 12985 N. Oracle Road in Oro Valley.
Yet the lack of streetlights and the multitude of plazas made it a challenge on the first of two nights we drove up from midtown Tucson. Luckily, our calls to Cibaria were answered by a very patient manager who guided us out of our wrong turns.
When we finally reached Walgreens Plaza, we were surprised to find a large restaurant tucked away in back.
It was worth the drive.
A fairly extensive menu features seafood, meats, pastas and pizzas ranging from $9.95 to $20.95 for dinner.
Cibaria has been open nearly 10 years. Owners Marion and Jerry Yarbrough bought it from the restaurant's second owner, Michael Veres, in March.
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The 29-year-old executive chef, Billy Brannock, has worked at Cibaria since June 2000. The Marana High School grad had previous stints at Daniel's, Cafe Terra Cotta and the Hilton El Conquistador.
Over two dinner visits, the young chef seemed to be very capable and sure of himself. The food was prepared with a deft touch, and dishes you don't see too often in the desert got a chance to shine.
Shine like the Vongole Blanco ($18.50). A bowl of steamed littleneck clams in a sauce served over al dente linguine demonstrates the way this dish is supposed to be prepared.
About 20 of the tiniest clams were still in the shell and tasted very fresh. The sauce's touches of garlic, shallots, white wine and clam juice created a savory broth that wasn't a thick sauce like many places serve. It should always be more brothy than creamy. Cibaria understands that concept.
On our first visit, we started with the asparagi appetizer ($6).
A generous amount of slender bright green spears came out, beginning what would be an exquisite meal. The drizzles of balsamic vinegar on the perfectly grilled spears gave a punch to the dish.
Another starter, the pollo di spinaci ($7.95), gave new life to the classic spinach salad. Sliced chicken breast, roasted red peppers and red onions adorned the spinach.
But what stood out was the dressing. The warm bacon balsamic vinaigrette was a bonanza of tiny bacon bits in a tangy dressing. We liked it. A lot.
In an Italian restaurant, it boils down to the tomato sauce. Too sweet and it's cloying. Too herby and it's unappetizing.
We enjoyed Cibaria's sauce, a simple and delicious sauce with a kind of Old World feel. Ingredients include a chicken base made with tomato sauce, carrots, onions and celery.
The gnocchi arrabiata ($8.95 half; $14.50 full) was a plate full of house-made potato dumplings in a spicy garlic marinara cream sauce. The gnocchi were rolled out and sliced, and house-made with a dash of nutmeg. The pasta had a nice texture - a bit chewy, like it's supposed to be.
The arrabiata sauce consisted of the house marinara with some white wine, garlic, pepper flakes and heavy cream to give it a smooth kick.
The sautéed Italian sausage in the polenta capponata ($8.95 half-order; $13.75 full) gave a flavorful zing to the eggplant, zucchini, yellow squash, red onions and mushrooms in a marinara sauce that was served over creamy polenta and baked with mozzarella. The dish was tasty but not our favorite - it was a bit too cheesy and saucy.
Pizza is a popular item at Cibaria, so we tried a small pesto pie ($9.25). Toasted pine nuts added a bit of sweetness to the made-from-scratch pesto. The pizza itself had a generous amount of cheese, and its delicious crust was soft.
Meat lovers will enjoy the beef medallions ($18.25). Pieces of beef paired with three jumbo shrimp were prepared to the requested medium and placed on a bed of spinach. A demi-glacé with shallots, white wine and gorgonzola proved an excellent accompaniment to the meat.
The vegetables were sautéed in olive oil and salt, and slow-roasted potatoes were prepared with olive oil and seasoning.
We ended on a high note with the tiramisu ($5.25). This sublime dessert's texture defined weightlessness. Brannock uses dry ladyfingers and lightly soaks them in espresso liqueur. An airy white frosting melted in our mouths. It was the perfect ending to an almost-perfect meal.
