We know: You didn't come to Southern Arizona in search of snowdrifts, icicles and frosty winter weather.
But the wonderful thing about our neck of the desert is that we can live in sun-kissed cactus country — and day-trip to recreation sites in snowy mountain terrain just an hour or so from Tucson.
All it takes is a bit of altitude adjustment.
A quick but cautious drive up the Catalina Highway northeast of the city will take you more than a vertical mile above the desert — from saguaro scenery to the realm of ski slopes, sledding hills, fireside dining and cozy rental cabins.
Maybe you're up for a vigorous day of skiing, sledding or snowshoeing. Or perhaps you just want to take in the wonders of winter through a cabin window. In either case, see the cover story inside this section for a guide to the snow season in the Catalina Mountains. — Doug Kreutz
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Snowboarders carve crazy-tight turns on glistening white slopes. Cross-country skiers glide through snow-muffled woods.
Sledders swoop and whoop down this hill and that.
And somewhere nearby, in a quiet cabin, members of a family savor the warmth of a crackling fire.
Welcome to winter about a vertical mile and an hour's journey above Tucson.
The heights of the Catalina Mountains, accessible via the 25-mile Catalina Highway northeast of the city, allow us to get a taste of the Alps or Rockies without leaving the county.
Today, we bring you a guide to snow-season pleasures in Tucson's 9,000-foot-high backyard. Glance around this page to find something to your liking — from downhill skiing to lodge lounging.
Bear in mind that snow accumulations vary throughout the winter. One week might bring splendid skiing on new-fallen powder. But a sudden warm spell could change conditions — shifting your focus from snow sports to a winter walk in the quiet woods or a weekend getaway to a mountain cabin.
Before heading up the Catalina Highway, check on road conditions by calling 547-7510.
Until then, repeat after us: Let it snow. Let it snow. Let it snow.
Skiing and snowboarding
Some newcomers find it hard to believe we've got a downhill ski area right outside Tucson.
But snowboarders and skiers schussing down the slopes of Mount Lemmon Ski Valley one day recently could tell you all about it.
"It's pretty good today — and one more snow will make it great!" said Michael Guzman, a snowboarder from Tucson.
Skier Sandy Rogers, hitting the slopes with her snowboarding daughter, Jennifer, said: "The weather is perfect. The snow is beautiful — and in an hour I can go back and look at the cactus."
Graham Davies, manager of the ski area, said it opened for the season on Dec. 15 and had a base of about 20 inches as of last week.
"So far, it's been really good," Davies said, noting that conditions this month will depend on weather and snow accumulations.
Ski Valley, with two lifts and 21 runs, is open from 9 a.m. to 4 p.m. Thursdays through Mondays. It's closed Tuesdays and Wednesdays.
An all-day lift ticket costs $35 for those 13 or older and $16 for 12 or younger. Half-day rates are $30 and $13. Snowboard and ski rentals are available.
To check on current conditions, call the ski area's snow phone at 576-1400.
Cross-country skiing, snowshoeing
Snow-cloaked forests are like a blank canvas — awaiting the tracks of your cross-country skis or snowshoes.
"This is one of the coolest things about living in Tucson," said Jeff Crane, who took a cross-country ski excursion one day recently in the Mount Bigelow area with fellow skier André De Leon. "I live in the desert and here I am skiing just 25 miles from my door."
Unlike downhill skiing with its ski-lift fees, traveling cross country costs nothing more than the $5 fee charged on the Catalina Highway for access to national forest sites.
Well-equipped and experienced skiers may follow a snow-covered trail — or simply choose a route of their own through the forest.
The Forest Service's Heidi Schewel emphasized that winter conditions call for special caution.
"First of all, be very careful driving up the road" to your cross-country skiing or snowshoeing destination, she said. "Be equipped well for the weather and terrain, and be aware of changing weather conditions. If you start to lose your way, turn around and follow your tracks back out."
Winter hiking
Taking a trek on a snowy trail — or even setting out on a winter hike in snowless conditions — can be exhilarating. But it's critical to be well-prepared and equipped for cold weather and changing conditions.
The payoff is a special pristine beauty.
"We saw big icicles and 6 or 7 inches of fresh snow piled up on picnic tables in Marshall Gulch," said hiker Emiliano Sotelo. He trekked the gulch area with Rocio Delgado, a visitor from Costa Rica.
Near the mountain community of Summerhaven, Gina Scionti and her daughter, Brianna Broussard, hiked into a snowy canyon — pulling sleds for some downhill sliding along the way.
Basking in a cabin
Forest fires in recent years destroyed some of the lodging spots around Summerhaven, but a few rentals are still available.
Among them are the Mount Lemmon Cabins, four separate units rented by Dorothy Crawford.
"They're all in Summerhaven, they all have central heat and they all have wood-burning fireplaces," said Crawford. "The cabins are fully equipped for cooking, and pets are welcome."
One of the cabins sleeps four to six people. The others sleep up to eight. Rates range from $135 to $165 per night.
Call 576-1455 for information or reservations.
Available from another owner is a one-bedroom cabin renting for $125 a night. Call 907-1176 for information or reservations.
Mountain dining
After a few hours of snow play, many mountain visitors are ready to chow down in warm comfort.
One popular spot is the Iron Door Restaurant at Mount Lemmon Ski Valley.
There, Tucsonan Matthew Taleck and Anke Beissel, a visitor from Frankfurt, Germany, enjoyed lunch in the glow of the restaurant's fireplace.
"What a great experience!" said Beissel. "You tell people you're going to Arizona, the desert, and here we're in beautiful snow."
Iron Door hours are 10:30 a.m. to 4 p.m. Mondays, Thursdays and Fridays and 9 a.m. to 4 p.m. Saturdays and Sundays. The restaurant is closed Tuesdays and Wednesdays.
Another popular spot for lunch is the Mount Lemmon Cafe in Summerhaven.
There, owner Pam Rinella is known for serving up big, rich and anything-but-low-calorie slices of pie.
Hours are 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. Mondays through Fridays and 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. Saturdays and Sundays.
Rinella suggests visiting the mountain on weekdays to avoid crowding and long waits on busy winter weekends.
Did you know . . .
• The high point of the Catalina Mountains is 9,157-foot Mount Lemmon.
• The average annual snowfall since 1991, according to the National Weather Service, is about 70 inches. But snowfall is highly variable from year to year. The total in 2005, for example, was only 11 inches while the total for 1998 was 252 inches.
Way to snow, Catalinas
Sledding
Slip-sliding down snow slopes — cautiously, in a place free of obstacles — is one of the most exhilarating pursuits for kids and families visiting the Catalinas in the winter.
Traditional and oval sleds, inner tubes and big sheets of plastic are among the preferred vehicles for snow play.
"I even slid down on my belly twice! Cool!" exclaimed 8-year-old Zack Benson during a recent outing with school friends on a popular sledding hill near Bear Wallow, at Milepost 22 on the Catalina Highway.
"It's tiring — but it's so much fun!" said Samantha Aguirre, 17, after a swift slide down the sledding slope.
Heidi Schewel, spokeswoman for the U.S. Forest Service, said there are no officially designated sledding slopes in the Catalinas.
Popular sites include areas along the road to Rose Canyon Lake, near Milepost 17 on the highway, and areas around the Mount Bigelow Road between Mileposts 20 and 21.
"Be careful where you park," making sure to be well off the highway, she said. "And then use common sense. Survey the area and make sure there are no hazards like trees in your path, and make sure you won't be sliding out onto the roadway." A stream courses through the wintry landscape near Turkey Run Road close to Summerhaven. Elezabeth Leake, 14, an eighth-grader at TLC Charter School, is covered with snow.