"We both have so much in common ... We both love soup."
-Sherri Ann Cabot, "Best in Show"
Come on, who doesn't?! Every culture has a soup, and every person has a favorite. Now that the weather's right, let's take a closer look at some of the most wonderful varieties from across the world, all found here in Tucson. In the coming weeks, stay tuned for more regional spotlights, including the soups of Europe, Central and South America, Mexico, and even the United States. But first up, an incredibly diverse culinary landscape, especially for liquid: Asia ...
Soups of the Szechwan: Do you have a wonton lust? Well here's something that'll really get your tongue tingling: the water-boiled soups of Szechwan, China. The region known for Kung Pao Chicken uses a special kind of peppercorn that produces a numbing sensation upon touch. Its spicy soups, available at China Szechwan, 1800 E. Fort Lowell Road, also feature meats like beef or buttery white fish that have been only so lightly poached, leaving them incredibly soft and plump. They're not in water, but an explosive vermillion broth spattered with dried chiles that float like flowers atop a fiery moat. INSIDER'S TIP: These soups are only available on the separate Szechwan menu, which you may have to ask for. It is worth it.
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BONUS: If you love Szechwan soup, you have to get over to Impress Hot Pot, 2610 N. 1st Ave., for a fondue version. Choose your own meats and vegetables to dip, including enoki mushroom, winter melon, lamb shoulder and more.
Ramen: No need to explain; you surely know by now that this trendy Japanese soup is worlds away from the 50-cent packages of our youth. (Am I dating myself?) But here's something surprising: Ramen is, in a sense, Chinese. Unlike more traditional udon, ramen's history dates back to 19th century Chinese traders, according to an article in The New Yorker. But the Chinese style wheat noodles are just one humble part of the diverse dish, which can sport anything from corn to kakuni, a specially-braised pork belly. One of my local favorites is called tan tan men, and is actually derived from the Szechwan specialty dan dan noodles. It features a piquant milky broth, made by simmering pork for a very long time, with scallions, ground pork and of course, those iconic, irresistible noodles. Find it at Samurai, 3912 N. Oracle Road.
Pho's cousins: So you've met Pho Bo, the beefy star quarterback of the Vietnamese soup family. But have you been introduced to his cousins, Pho Ga, Chao Ga, Hủ Tiếu and Mì Tôm Cua? There are so many wonderful, artful varieties out there, and it seems like every restaurant is making something different: chicken broth with Chinese egg noodles and fried garlic, thick spicy beef soup with scallions, seafood soup with crab and shrimp, soups adorned with various balls and strips of sculpted meat. The staggering menu at Thuan Kieu, inside Lee Lee International Supermarket, puts this diversity on display. On my last visit to the restaurant at 1990 W. Orange Grove Road, I savored a bowl of Bánh Canh, a light pork broth-based soup with shrimp, fish cakes and those addicting slurpy white udon noodles. Mix in the basil and bean sprouts to your liking and you've got something really incredible, and unique.
Help, I'm running out of room and I still want to talk!
I could write a novel on how much I love these soups. But since this is the Internet, I'll spare you the trouble and just list a few more of my favorites.
Spicy Korean soft tofu soup, or Soon Doo Bu Chigae at Kimchi Time, 2900 E. Broadway. If you haven't slurped down tofu, you haven't lived!
Kimchi soup with Korean bacon at Azian Restaurant Sushi & Korean BBQ, 15 N. Alvernon Way. Excellent rich spicy broth, with plentiful chunks of pickled cabbage.
Tom Yum Gai hot and sour chicken soup with lemongrass and plump mushrooms at Char's Thai, 5039 E. 5th St. Sizzling in a silver bowl!
Anything I missed? If you've got a favorite, let me know in the comments section!
