Tasting German favorites at Tucson's new Biergarten

Back when I was working the breaking news desk, Ellice Lueders had my dream job: the food writer at This is Tucson and the Arizona Daily Star.

I would catch up on her stories whenever I had some downtime during my day, making a mental list of what places to check out the next time I was hungry.

Now, about three years after her departure, I needed her expertise once more. It was crucial that I tap into her knowledge of a cuisine we don’t see here in Tucson very much: German food.

When Biergarten German Kitchen and Bar opened in June at 2320 N. Silverbell Road, people went berserk. It was pretty much impossible to get a table, with customers flocking to the restaurant to try schnitzel, giant pretzels and mugs full of cold beer.

For the past month, I’ve been keeping my eye on Biergarten, waiting for the right time to strike. After reading a post on the Tucson Reddit page, I came to the conclusion that I could finally go and have a good chance at getting a table.

There was just one problem: I know virtually nothing about German food. So I reached out to my trusted source: Ellice. Ellice is an expert when it comes to German food since she grew up enjoying homemade sauerbraten and rouladen courtesy of her Oma.

I sent her the Biergarten menu and asked her to pick out the perfect German meal for me, and she did not disappoint.

I drove to Biergarten on a recent Wednesday at noon, feeling confident I’d get a table and a chill, easygoing lunch. As I pulled into the parking lot, my jaw dropped. Parking space after parking space  was full, leaving me wishing I had made a reservation.

When I walked through the door, I instantly felt like I had been transported across the world. Vines of green leaves hang from the ceiling as waitresses, each wearing dirndl dresses, carefully fill giant mugs with beer. German music fills the restaurant as families sit at tables, laughing and eating. It's a lively scene.

Since I was a party of one, I was able to be quickly seated at the bar. Rows and rows of crystal-clear glasses stared at me from behind the bar, including massive boot-shaped mugs. Maybe one day I’ll be able to chug down a German beer in their fun boot glass, but unfortunately, today was not that day.

While I sat at the bar, I overheard a waitress telling a customer that even though the dining area was packed, this was considered a slow day for them, and that sometimes there are two-hour wait times on the weekends.

The first thing Ellice told me to try was a refreshing Apfelsaftschorle, a drink consisting of apple juice and sparkling water. It tasted just like sparkling apple cider and was a nice cool down. I would definitely recommend it for those who may not want to drink alcohol but still want something fun to sip on.

As cliché as it is, there was no way I was leaving Biergarten without eating a soft pretzel. Fortunately, Ellice recommended I try one. They have normal pretzels that come with their house-made brown mustard or cheese, an extra EXTRA large pretzel, and pretzel bites.

I went with a normal soft pretzel, coming in the classic twisted shape. The outer crust was nice and chewy and the inside was warm and fluffy: exactly how you want your soft pretzel. It was nearly impossible to stop tearing bite-size pieces off and stuffing them into my mouth. I think I could’ve eaten the XXL one all by myself.

I had to remind myself to save some room for Ellice’s entrée choice: sauerbraten. Sauerbraten is a pot roast marinated in a blend of aromatics, vinegar and red wine. At Biergarten, it also comes with fresh spaetzle, an egg-based pasta.  

It was delicious. The pot roast was tender and juicy. What I really loved was the silky, rich sauce, with a tangy flavor that paired nicely with the savory meat. 

It took me a while to get used to the spaetzle. I hadn't expected the slightly chewy, soft texture. But as I continued eating it, especially with the sauce on top, I began to like it more.

I was stuffed, but I still had to order dessert. Ellice said to get a slice of bienenstich, a cake with a honey-almond topping and a creamy vanilla filling. This is the cake her Oma would make on special occasions.

You don’t have to tell me twice to order cake, and it was scrumptious. It kind of reminded me of a pastry filled with a velvety vanilla filling. It had a gentle sweet taste, making me want to try to recreate it at home for my family. I was grateful for Ellice's expertise. 

Next time I go to Biergarten, I will not only be making a reservation, but I’ll be chugging a beer out of that boot!