Bruce Yim could teach a few lessons in perseverance.
Trained by a French chef at age 19, Yim has amassed almost 40 years in the culinary industry, spending a decade at Sweet Basil in Vail, Colo. before lending his talents to Vin Tabla and Downtown Kitchen + Cocktails in Tucson.
Yim has also worked in Wolfgang Puck’s Postrio in San Francisco, the 21 Club in New York, and Harry Cipriani in Washington. A 2001 James Beard House honoree, this physically fit father of two just wrapped his third year as executive chef of The Grill at Hacienda Del Sol.
“You have to keep pushing and pushing yourself,” said Yim. “You really don’t know who you are as a chef until you collapse and then pick yourself back up again. That excites me too.”
At The Grill, Yim strives to be on the cutting edge of culinary work while preserving the comforts its regulars savor. Likewise, he also relishes his dual roles as innovator and mentor to his staff of 20. “I like to say I rule the kitchen with a rubber mallet.”
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What is your best skill in the kitchen?
“I think one of my better skills is building a cohesive, culinary team. You have to be fair, honest and straight-forward. Culinary life is a tough job, but we are responsible for everything we do.”
Do you have a favorite ingredient?
“I would say the herbs in our garden. We have three types of basil, oregano, chives, sage parsley, rosemary. … We try to use as many fresh herbs as possible.”
What has been your most memorable meal?
“When I was growing up, my family— aunts, uncles, cousins — used to make homemade dim sum. Everyone sat around the table making the dough and the filling, then we’d steam and cook them off. We would gossip and just be together as a family. As the years progressed, my aunts got older and we ended up going to restaurants, but it wasn’t the same.”
Where do you find your inspiration?
“I get a lot of it from my younger guys, when I see they share the same passion that I have. When they want to explore and try all these different things, I let them. It’s more than just loving to cook. Part of the passion is having this total vision and doing whatever it takes to persevere.”
What dishes does your family beg you to make for them?
“I’m trying to get them to make their own dinners! But my daughter loves my braised tofu. My son likes my bolognese”