'Guacamoliere' makes the Flying V unique

Not the sommelier, but the person who whips up tableside guacamole.

The restaurant's really the best of two worlds — a resort atmosphere but without the stuffy dining room where guests scrunch down into their chairs because the waiters are dressed better than they are.

Flying V debuted a new menu in late August. The heavy-on-the-butter sauces are out, replaced by homestyle cooking with playful touches. You'll still find the occasional indulgence, like the $31 buffalo chop. But mostly you'll see Mexican touches inspired by chef Alexis Martinez's upbringing in Douglas.

Now, we don't know if the Martinez family had its own personal guacamoliere, but the guacamole appetizer ($12) sure is a fun way to start a meal.

A cart, loaded with footed black bowls, is wheeled out to the table. Pebbly skinned avocados are sliced and scooped and mixed with green and red onions, mango, cilantro, garlic and tomatoes. The chunky melange is the perfect blend of flavors — buttery avocado, sweet, fleshy mango and the pleasant bite from the onions and garlic that only hits as that last smidge of crunchy, salty tortilla chip glides down.

The guac is so filling that there's really no need to eat anything else. But, we couldn't resist the South of the Border Fruit Starter ($9).

Spears of pineapple, cantaloupe, honeydew, watermelon, mango and jicama came in a glass with a scoop of spiced citrus sorbet. Really more of a granita, the lemony ice was sweet with a gingery snap. A shot glass of jamaica (hibiscus flower), which was passed around like a communion chalice, provided a hit of sugary, cranberrylike juice. The accompanying triangles of Indian fry bread smeared with a fig jam didn't knock anyone's socks off. The bread was more reminiscent of stale supermarket pitas than fluffy, fried Indian bread.

Then, as if we weren't already stuffed enough, the waiter brought out complimentary cornbread, moist and flecked with mild green chiles. A smooth chile-honey butter melted into the little crevices. The bread was served in the cutest individual cast-iron dish. Luckily for Flying V, nobody managed to bring a giant purse that night.

Entrees reflected the same blend of culinary creativity with homey touches. The Chicken Ceppino ($22), a family recipe, was a comforting stew of potatoes, tomatoes and succulent, braised chicken that really did slip right off the bones, which was a bit of a problem. It was hard to navigate around all those little bones in the restaurant's dim lighting. The deep red broth, laced with poblano for a distinctive slow burn, was sublime.

Moist and perfectly grilled, the salmon ($25) came with an unusual partner — a chile relleno, cuddled in a fluffy egg batter and stuffed with a smooth filling of roasted, mashed potatoes and asadero, smoked Cheddar and queso fresco cheeses.

The buffalo ($31), a fat, 12-ounce chop, had a more intense flavor than beef and came dressed in a lovely saguaro demi sauce. A side of sweet potato wedges, roasted and soft, added a touch of sugar, while chorizo piperade — red pepper and onion strips with the Spanish version of the sausage — added a smoky dimension.

At a time when too many restaurants are cramming in tables, the Flying V's dining room is pleasantly spread out, so you don't feel like the people at the next table could reach over and snag a bite of dessert, which is a good thing because you'll want to keep them to yourself. The chocolate souffle ($9) is intensely chocolate-y and so light it couldn't possibly have any calories, although the rich, vanilla sauce probably has a few.

The Flying V chocolate nacho bar ($11) was just too adorable. Mini, cinnamon-sugar-dusted taco shells covered an oval platter with little bowls heaped with fillings like chocolate mousse, a subtle pistachio cream, plump berries, spicy-sweet pecan bits and honey. We're not quite sure why it's called a nacho bar when the little chips are so clearly tacos, but we'll go on record as declaring it the best pseudo Mexican dessert since the choco taco ice cream treat.

Review

Flying V Bar & Grill at Loews Ventana Canyon Resort, 7000 N. Resort Drive, 615-5495

• Hours: 5:30-10 p.m. daily.

• Family call: Sure, and there's a pretty reasonably priced kids' menu full of stuff they like.

• Noise level: Comfortable, easy to have a conversation.

• Vegetarian choices: Not many.

• Dress: Casual.

• Reservations: Recommended.

• Price range: A "quick bites" section offers a $12 buffalo chicken pizza with entrees running $19.50 for green chile con carne or a vegetarian Flying Saucer to $31 for buffalo.

• Wine list: Comprehensive, plus a full bar and new specialty drink menu.