Mirin is a sweet, syrupy wine made from rice. It's particularly fine with grilled foods. When brushed over the hot food, the mirin becomes a glossy glaze; think of those skewers of chicken yakitori you get at the local Japanese restaurant.
Mirin is low in alcohol and meant for cooking, not drinking. Here, its mild, honeyed flavor enhances the salmon's richness while melding well with the salt of the soy and fish sauces. The sweetness also plays up the smoky char of the grill pan. You can find mirin, fish sauce and soy sauce at Asian and specialty food markets and, increasingly, in supermarkets.
Tips
Broil if you don't have a stove-top grill pan. This dish can be made outdoors, of course, on a charcoal or gas grill. Boneless, skinless, chicken breasts or even New York strip steaks can be substituted for the salmon.
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If you want a saltier but still slightly sweet flavor, use teriyaki sauce instead of mirin. Just cut back on the soy sauce.
Beverage pairing
An Oregon pinot noir, a German riesling or an ice-cold Japanese beer would be good pours with the salmon. Hot tea or lime-spritzed seltzer water are nonalcoholic alternatives.
Mirin-Glazed Salmon
Preparation time: 10 minutes.
Marinating time: 15 minutes.
Cooking time: 6 minutes.
Yield: 2 servings.
* 2 salmon fillets or steaks, about 7 ounces each
* 1 tablespoon each: soy sauce, Thai fish sauce
* 2 teaspoons minced lemon zest
* 1/4 cup mirin
Brush the salmon with soy and fish sauces. Top with lemon zest. Marinate 7 minutes; turn fish. Marinate 8 minutes.
Meanwhile, heat a grill pan over high heat. Place fish on grill; brush with 1 tablespoon of the mirin. Grill 3 minutes; turn fish. Brush fish with 1 tablespoon of the mirin. Grill until cooked through, about 3 minutes, depending on thickness. Brush remaining 2 tablespoons of the mirin on the salmon before serving.
Nutrition information per serving: 370 calories (36 percent from fat,) 14 g fat (2 g saturated), 125 mg cholesterol, 3 g carbohydrates, 46 g protein, 1,452 mg sodium, 0 g fiber.

