In South America, El Dorado is a mythical city of gold.
In South Tucson, El Dorado is a yellow-painted restaurant with a lengthy buffet and karaoke three nights a week.
On a recent Friday afternoon, a silver-haired woman in a long purple dress shook pepper over a bowl of tortilla soup while mariachi music played on the restaurant's speakers.
El Dorado caters to a quieter clientel during the lunch and dinner hours before the margarita-sipping karaoke crowd arrives.
Roberto Gonzalez and his brother, Tony, bought El Dorado in 1987. Tony sold his part in it about six years ago. Roberto Gonzalez's son Edgar became a co-owner in 2006.
El Dorado turns 50 this month, and a celebration is planned.
"We're going to do a nice activity for the public with mariachi," said Edgar Gonzalez. "We'll make sure there's margaritas flowing."
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After the celebration, Edgar will take over operation of the restaurant. Recently, health concerns have forced the elder Gonzalez to take it easy.
Roberto Gonzalez, 66, and his brother, Antonio, grew up in the mining town of Cananea, Sonora, and moved to Tucson 40 years ago. The two started working at a chrome-plating company, making bumpers.
In 1979, they bought Crossroads Restaurant Drive In, another landmark on the avenue.
Like Crossroads and many of the other restaurants on South Fourth Avenue, El Dorado started small and gradually got bigger. Over the years, owners added a bar and an upstairs room for large, private parties.
Edgar Gonzalez says some of his customers have been coming for years, since long before his father bought the restaurant.
On a recent Tuesday afternoon, the lunch special was two shredded beef tacos, rice and beans, a cup of lentil soup and an iced tea for $5.25 plus tax.
That evening, a swarm of locals gathered in the space between El Dorado's back bar and pool tables and sang karaoke. Most of the songs were in Spanish, and several men wore large white cowboy hats.
Upstairs, the restaurant hosts bridal showers, birthday parties, even small weddings.
Edgar Gonzalez remembers when El Dorado was much smaller. He says he used to love coming to the restaurant with his father when he was a boy. He would help bus tables and his brother Rob would work the cash register.
Today, Edgar's three sons help their father by washing dishes. They're learning the family business from the bottom up.
Just like their dad did, and his dad before him.
El Dorado Restaurant
1949 S. Fourth Ave., 622-9171.
• Owner: Roberto Gonzalez Sr. bought the restaurant from George Simon in 1987. Gonzalez's son Edgar became a co-owner in 2006.
• Year opened: 1959.
• Hours: 7 a.m.-11 p.m. Sundays through Thursdays. 7 a.m.-1 a.m. Fridays and Saturdays.
• Known for: Lunch and dinner buffet and a happy hour from 3 to 8 p.m. daily with 99-cent margaritas.
• Most expensive menu item: Both the camaron fantasia (grilled shrimp stuffed with cheese and wrapped in bacon) and the camaron El Dorado (sautéed shrimp with vegetables and mushrooms) are $13.95.
• Least expensive: Several items are under $5, including the green chile burrito ($4.95).
• Cost of a house margarita: $2.75.
• Entertainment: Karaoke on Tuesdays, Fridays and Sundays at 9 p.m.
