In our continuing search for good grub and good beer, we turn to the offspring of one of Tucson's oldest breweries.
Barrio Brewing Co. is an offshoot of Tucson’s oldest brewery, Gentle Ben’s, which began selling its own brews on University Boulevard in 1991. Barrio stakes no claim on being a “gastropub” although the food is not bad. But the beer comes first, with the interesting location — in an industrial area downtown where the rumble of the trains and the toot of the horn are occasional interruptions — a close second.
If you’ve been to Ben’s, you know what to expect at Barrio — the lineup of beers is identical and the food menu is familiar, though Barrio adds paninis to the mix.
The menu of appetizers, salads, sandwiches and tacos includes all of the old favorites and a few surprises, like a tasty mushroom sandwich called “A Touch of Grey” ($8.25).
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It’s tough, though, to lure me from my favorites, starting with the carne asada tacos ($8.50). I don’t usually order Mexican food at a non-Mexican restaurant, but Barrio marinates tender beef, cooks it perfectly and pairs it with a good pico de gallo. Their Sonoran hot dogs also rival my favorite food-truck versions.
The burgers are good and available in a variety of preparations ($7.50 to $8.95). When you are asked whether you would like to substitute beer-battered fries for an additional 75 cents, say “Yes.”
And then there's the beer.
As you might expect, Barrio/Ben’s has the brewing thing down after 21 years at the craft.
Some of the old favorites — Tucson Blonde, Red Cat Amber and Copperhead Pale Ale — are consistently good.
The newest entry is the Rich Rod Red, another UA-themed addition, that, as the menu notes, is “the color of a flower associated with a certain New Year’s Bowl.”
See the full review and our cover story on Tucson's booming microbrew scene in Thursday's Caliente.
